tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91232713397543810372024-03-13T06:13:52.384+01:00DENHAMNEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-91813536892533410412009-12-15T21:26:00.003+01:002009-12-15T21:44:00.770+01:00DENHAMTHEJEANMAKER.COM IS LIVE<div>We've reformatted <a href="http://www.denhamthejeanmaker.com/">our site</a>. Well, for the first time really but give us a break, we're only a year old. Sadly now, there'll be precious little reason to visit us again here at the blog. Except maybe for nostalgia's sake. Happily, the new site is pretty much a fancy blog. Real fancy compared to what you may have come to expect from us online up to now.</div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DAMPvYSigRH4C_7RkwGecOYcKXjX_4KCwQXHbdDKCk0m7BEj64-sVJrN_0vqxGe0DWKY6JqDaoQUr5M-q1WvGIGi7sk1QfmMWozFEKUxoQyEw3cVJbGnt4R1eA9OW-pImDVstZfpUX8/s1600-h/Newsite.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 278px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4DAMPvYSigRH4C_7RkwGecOYcKXjX_4KCwQXHbdDKCk0m7BEj64-sVJrN_0vqxGe0DWKY6JqDaoQUr5M-q1WvGIGi7sk1QfmMWozFEKUxoQyEw3cVJbGnt4R1eA9OW-pImDVstZfpUX8/s400/Newsite.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5415563190300453330" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.denhamthejeanmaker.com/">CLICK HERE</a> to hop over to the new site. Where each card reveals a story which represents one facet of what we work on around here. Shuffle the deck and flip through the <i>collections</i>, the <i>garment library</i>, the <i>studio</i> and <i>shops</i>, <i>press reports</i> and witness the emergence of a <span style="font-style:italic;">Cutter´s Council</span>... Like our original blog, its designed in time with no beginning nor end, through resourceful innovation and experimentation. It´s a decorated blog. A tailor-made homepage. We hope to fascinate but are equally prepared to frustrate.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">NOTE</span>: If you've visited our main URL before, you might need to <span style="font-weight:bold;">"empty cache"</span> <span style="font-style:italic;">(whatever that means) </span>to get it to load the first time.NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-62437135639261756982009-12-04T15:55:00.026+01:002009-12-09T17:14:47.374+01:00COLLUSION: Denham and EnPlus<div class="vzaar_media_player"><br /><object id="video" width="425" height="344" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" data="http://vzaar.com/videos/120901.swf"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://vzaar.com/videos/120901.swf"><br /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><br /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><br /><param name="movie" value="http://vzaar.com/videos/120901.swf"><br /><param name="wmode" value="transparent"><br /><param name="flashvars" value="border=none&autoplay=true"><br /><embed src="http://vzaar.com/videos/120901.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="344" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="border=none&autoplay=true"></embed><br /><video width="425" height="344" src="http://vzaar.com/videos/120901.iphone" poster="http://vzaar.com/videos/120901.frame"></video><br /></object><br /></div><br /><!-- VZAAR END --><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunOqoygdruIKiVYDgOOg-VdBRHt6qxY8ptz7t2fKx-EJLGPOIrjc6-7cRdJLGyypcGP823EXfmmkV0UDQ5rbkh4u9kg52cN0tQF2d9kJC-i2qB8-9DvhckoYQVlsUvDcMpMUfXQ20TrI/s1600-h/Enplus4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 116px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunOqoygdruIKiVYDgOOg-VdBRHt6qxY8ptz7t2fKx-EJLGPOIrjc6-7cRdJLGyypcGP823EXfmmkV0UDQ5rbkh4u9kg52cN0tQF2d9kJC-i2qB8-9DvhckoYQVlsUvDcMpMUfXQ20TrI/s400/Enplus4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411409554730241106" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WORKING TOGETHER IN SECRET</span><br /><br />The official introduction of the <span style="font-weight:bold;">EnPlus/Denham Collusion Series</span> marks the project coming out of months of secret meetings and into the winter light of Amsterdam in December. The series includes the <span style="font-weight:bold;">495 Japanese Dry Selvedge</span>, the <span style="font-weight:bold;">459 American Standard</span> and the <span style="font-weight:bold;">Revised Staple White Tee</span>. Each of the three represents a meeting of the minds of <span style="font-weight:bold;">EnPlus</span> and <span style="font-weight:bold;">Denham</span>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTWeot2fNjoUAWU8D3MYvyMTbRtUTV0YoIS6esjoHVcYMNcsAKxMnfBuEhvw35ofP8HShbAzu80RjxjhPuiP1FGFlDyX1QwduH6wU-5tI29QEu-R_Ty9miYXMCMtRJRnYeRx7TkJSBZI/s1600-h/Enplus7.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 125px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSTWeot2fNjoUAWU8D3MYvyMTbRtUTV0YoIS6esjoHVcYMNcsAKxMnfBuEhvw35ofP8HShbAzu80RjxjhPuiP1FGFlDyX1QwduH6wU-5tI29QEu-R_Ty9miYXMCMtRJRnYeRx7TkJSBZI/s400/Enplus7.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411409536833708770" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Malvin Wix, Gee Schmidt </span>and <span style="font-weight:bold;">Edson Sabajao</span> AKA <b>Patta</b> have a proven track-record of identifying, participating-in, filtering and combining style influences with a level of distinction and individuality that can only be born from lifetimes fully submersed in the unpredictable but ultimately harmonious mix of expressive cultures which have been capturing their imaginations since they were kids.<br /><br />The combined vision they've manifested within their existing <a href="http://patta.nl/">Patta </a>concept has received international respect deriving as much from the trio's personal integrity as it does from the carefully curated rare sneaker assortment for which the store is world renowned. Patta's selection has a reputation for flair, taste, cool, authenticity and fun and the service culture the team have nurtured in the shop has always reflected these exact same values.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDlSfZKcIdv2a3s9TvLGM1X4dwBTOdvIiWOL83g9xjJhfTPMNglDbOZgjrRgGB8V_cNFRgG7-fvGRUjnsrB8dzlRE0UUcRW7m2w6WeWwsniSUukKF1kNbAIfoOEaS2ujloLlYsyo0oess/s1600-h/Enplus2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 189px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDlSfZKcIdv2a3s9TvLGM1X4dwBTOdvIiWOL83g9xjJhfTPMNglDbOZgjrRgGB8V_cNFRgG7-fvGRUjnsrB8dzlRE0UUcRW7m2w6WeWwsniSUukKF1kNbAIfoOEaS2ujloLlYsyo0oess/s400/Enplus2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411407942948236930" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">STYLE & CULTURE DETECTION AT</span> <a href="http://www.precinct-five.com/">PRECINCT 5</a><br /><br />But that's Patta. Their new shop<span style="font-weight:bold;"> Precinct 5 </span>which opens next week on<b> December 10th </b> sits within a retired Amsterdam police station<i> (the former 5th precinct)</i> and represents a completely new step in their entrepreneurial evolution and their new product design platform.<div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>WHAT IS ENPLUS<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color:#000066;"> [&PLUS]</span>?</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>EnPlus</b> is now emerging as the product-based expression of this next evolutionary stage. The crew approached Denham to collude on an inaugural program of co-branded items in honor of the birth of their new shop and the emergence of their new brand.<br /><br />The concept includes two equally pure approaches to the iconic 5-pocket along with the kind of fresh white tee shirt we used to scoop-up in double packs, crack open and wear right off the card, fold lines and all.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">495 JAPANESE DRY SELVEDGE</span><br /><br />Named for the address of the Denham store in Amsterdam, the premium edition is crafted in 22-dip Japanese narrow-loom selvedge and features anodized trumpet-shank buttons on the fly. Other details like the full waistband embroidery; <span style="font-style:italic;">"Honorable Men Go With Honorable Men,"</span>, the high gloss black leather waistband label with EnPlus emboss, black twill interior fly taping and interior pocketbag imprint are all common to both denim styles.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7L7R5UCDfOm4SobujrJPSP6JEZAxN3Oeflrl2WjZuwuw2I0PlbOKDNh2cjS8Q50Ljc7Gmqz72svJ82MmdYo615Ajfa5KxmcZaTS6_j16F5Vxf44YXRC8pYOKvWOti9BLw_SzuVD9mjig/s1600-h/Enplus5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7L7R5UCDfOm4SobujrJPSP6JEZAxN3Oeflrl2WjZuwuw2I0PlbOKDNh2cjS8Q50Ljc7Gmqz72svJ82MmdYo615Ajfa5KxmcZaTS6_j16F5Vxf44YXRC8pYOKvWOti9BLw_SzuVD9mjig/s400/Enplus5.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411409548239711202" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">459 AMERICAN STANDARD</span><br /><br />Named for the new address of the Precinct Five store, the core edition is made from classic 8-dip American denim and features a traditional button fly. The other details like the full waistband embroidery; <span style="font-style:italic;">"Honorable Men Go With Honorable Men,"</span>, the high gloss black leather waistband label with EnPlus emboss, black twill interior fly taping and interior pocketbag imprint are all present here too.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhsAS3-pEuixFTYnZXAq-F4-CPyGDCe7V_E1Q7wydvtr0ime-wWMiOu-LOxHCvHHFQupDx1zn1C77_OPqUMyKLtzW0e-lZFsS1NVwjSng1PdyS0I88zRzfy1viaGTyxGV2vUKRQDA_K4/s1600-h/Enplus6c.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 223px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihhsAS3-pEuixFTYnZXAq-F4-CPyGDCe7V_E1Q7wydvtr0ime-wWMiOu-LOxHCvHHFQupDx1zn1C77_OPqUMyKLtzW0e-lZFsS1NVwjSng1PdyS0I88zRzfy1viaGTyxGV2vUKRQDA_K4/s400/Enplus6c.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411534998513809426" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">CUFF WIDTH AS THE NEW GOLDEN RATIO</span><br /><br />The project has been characterized by an positivistic realness embodied by <b>Wix</b>, <b>Gee</b> and <b>Edson</b>. Jean culture attracts purism like knees attract grass-stains but there are endless types of purism when it comes to denim. In the case of the EnPlus crew one core element of the blue jean design dogma is the all-important <b>cuff with</b>. The discussion surrounding the ideal cuff width was long, rigerous and exacting. For those of us on the Denham team it was an unexpected chance to witness a spin on jean oriented passion that was entirely new. Even Jason with decades of denim experience hadn't been exposed to this particular orientation before.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBAhftq5gGnKbP1lznv8MEoHJjqvypxgctxQyJPd5sswazM75q9VgvU0XWLezFEq5UUc7J7_bI__WipJTGIwFdQWpaVOVj7jV7yrqF6bR96IDvJ1n41Eo8hCCExZ1neFwxYeilWw32xwc/s1600-h/Enplus1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 217px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBAhftq5gGnKbP1lznv8MEoHJjqvypxgctxQyJPd5sswazM75q9VgvU0XWLezFEq5UUc7J7_bI__WipJTGIwFdQWpaVOVj7jV7yrqF6bR96IDvJ1n41Eo8hCCExZ1neFwxYeilWw32xwc/s400/Enplus1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411409556260710322" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WHYCUFF JEAN ?</span><br /><br />The cuff matters <i>because the kicks matter.</i> Stupid. Why else? Jeans need to look good with your kicks, or the other way around. High top, low top, mid, padded leather, unlined canvas... Getting that key measurement to work with 'em all is no mean trick.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisEA9QbGMwev6vx_s7KVSvES5ZgYH5kVfkzfcJ6L4oU8NDwslQM7sZYCvGA6k9n0wvKG5bTSd0QILfTElCSKp4yz5M7l8NonpRKFII6FI8aDRMYIOyvaiZDwU7ZH2DacZQLihPYud-zuA/s1600-h/Enplus8.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 86px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisEA9QbGMwev6vx_s7KVSvES5ZgYH5kVfkzfcJ6L4oU8NDwslQM7sZYCvGA6k9n0wvKG5bTSd0QILfTElCSKp4yz5M7l8NonpRKFII6FI8aDRMYIOyvaiZDwU7ZH2DacZQLihPYud-zuA/s400/Enplus8.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411407938456428818" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">2PACK TEE</span><br /><br />Reaching back to the days when we would crack open a 2-pack of white tee shirts with the broad self-satisfied grin of guys that can put off the laundry for another weekend, the Collusion tee shirts are offered two-at-a-time in a subtle slub-jersey and feature articulated lower hem-drop creating shirt tails that are part of DENHAM's own tee signature launching within their Spring 2010 assortment.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmZYxij8KZEnP9d181YIyUVYyjf6GIQ_XNpOHVGpjivz0VD8f48_mBkkGBAzQ-bmqAwVlr3yb1jZgLDAriVd3a-n2lLYIV-oEBLwT9owSYlNTlSTWKaQE-eOmLfcbD2LKnjW4_ct7v3o/s1600-h/Enplus9.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 174px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmZYxij8KZEnP9d181YIyUVYyjf6GIQ_XNpOHVGpjivz0VD8f48_mBkkGBAzQ-bmqAwVlr3yb1jZgLDAriVd3a-n2lLYIV-oEBLwT9owSYlNTlSTWKaQE-eOmLfcbD2LKnjW4_ct7v3o/s400/Enplus9.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5411407952689844514" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">THEIR PLACE OR OURS</span><br /><br />The three styles in the<b> Collusion</b> series are offered only at the new <a href="http://www.precinct-five.com/">PRECINCT FIVE</a> shop opening<b> December 10th</b>, and starting at the same time they will also be presented in our own Amsterdam store on the Pinsengracht.</div>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-30027255155960025802009-10-14T14:30:00.004+02:002009-10-14T14:52:45.264+02:00STITCHER ACADEMY WARRANTS ISSUED<i>"Give a man a fish he'll eat for a day. Teach a man to fish and he'll never need to settle for anything less than the perfect fit,"</i><br /><br /><object width="395" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/sDjg-ksuSHo&hl=en&fs=1&"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/sDjg-ksuSHo&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="395" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />The twins from <a href="http://www.jeanspaleis.nl/">Jeanspaleis </a><i>(and DNA and Accent Circonflexe)</i> stormed the gate and wouldn't leave until they had extracted some of Jason's basic jeanscraft gnosis. A quasi-impromptu sewing college commenced and 24 intensive hours later the guys were issued the first two <b>Academy Warrants</b> confirming them as qualified jean seamsters.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGfPemackPI3mvwS9cMn0dxYqpNodNsYPgQq-En0n0dhXGzq4ctZbnD_52qqn6GMuaG_xZU8M3-1xt9G9rzcSKMa4qUktbWs4q_Xu6KVtFPhtSUUafGb9ktoWHmo-M7A1y0NGi95fxopg/s1600-h/Academy.jpg"><img style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 279px; text-align: center; " src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGfPemackPI3mvwS9cMn0dxYqpNodNsYPgQq-En0n0dhXGzq4ctZbnD_52qqn6GMuaG_xZU8M3-1xt9G9rzcSKMa4qUktbWs4q_Xu6KVtFPhtSUUafGb9ktoWHmo-M7A1y0NGi95fxopg/s400/Academy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5392436278456269346" /></a><br />Welcome to the <span style="font-weight:bold;">Seamsters Union</span> gentlemen. <i>Now where the hell is</i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jimmy_Hoffa"><i> Jimmy Hoffa?</i></a>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-75792005256752144442009-10-07T12:37:00.006+02:002009-10-07T21:03:51.055+02:00BEING PART OF IT PART 2After promising to minimize the whole celebrity thing, we'll need to amend the contract just this once. Forgive us and consider this a simple extension of the previous post.<br /><br />Anyway, we'll keep it short. It was a big week for the crew at the studio. <span style="font-weight:bold;">Nigel Cabourn </span>and <span style="font-weight:bold;">Drew Holmes</span> were with us for a few days fresh from the opening of their new <span style="font-style:italic;">Army Gym</span> concept in Japan. The fact Nigel's 40 year commitment to <a href="http://www.cabourn.com/">quality</a> and stubburn-as-hell personal design ethic is an inspiration to us will come as no surprise.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EhkyB-OIaiWDzv95RD1ZkrqjK_y-02Lc6Q339gtO0t49y3b-BAYukginb5-XZzoTvov-6qT-rJyh09wpP0xvZ_RizEYsjuT6sqGSRQeB_2U7fGpt1aqUQ2fFdhOvyARJgnsu6e5la1tT/s1600-h/JDPMNK.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 279px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9EhkyB-OIaiWDzv95RD1ZkrqjK_y-02Lc6Q339gtO0t49y3b-BAYukginb5-XZzoTvov-6qT-rJyh09wpP0xvZ_RizEYsjuT6sqGSRQeB_2U7fGpt1aqUQ2fFdhOvyARJgnsu6e5la1tT/s400/JDPMNK.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5389808904735337666" /></a><br />As if that weren't enough <span style="font-style:italic;">(and it really would have been)</span>, G-Star's legendary <span style="font-weight:bold;">Pierre Morisset </span>walked through the door. A magic moment and a spontaneous meeting-of-the-minds ensued. If the rest of us need to wear vintage Elwoods and Budgie Jackets for a while keep the spark of that energy alive in the studio then, damn it, that's what we'll do. Whatever it takes.L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-28659059988025243432009-09-17T10:26:00.006+02:002009-09-20T07:39:21.472+02:00TO BE A PART OF ITWe're pretty determined to resist celebrity postings here. We're trying to maintain a basic focus on product. -Its inspiration, design, research and development. So forgive us for exhibiting our own case of star-struck syndrome on this one.<br /><br />But the fact is that we're daily motivated by the possibility that the work we do and the stuff we create could play some small part in the grand historical trajectory of jeanscraft and utility tailoring itself. That's why we were so stoked when <span style="font-weight:bold;">Adriano Goldschmidt </span>and <span style="font-weight:bold;">Francois Girbaud</span> elected to spend some time in our world during the first <span style="font-weight:bold;">L.O.C.K. </span>event during <span style="font-weight:bold;">Bread & Butter</span> in Berlin.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbMZL7sDilu0zm3AD7Trk9repwu3suXIz-51H45Eo6RZAHkzmaefTdET2qZxadrBst0JjZrUm7zsJuLVzMbfvHWdXOr-bJbtR4TWyazG7Wp8EkeqUVCVQ5zz0Ed2wp_yzFRM0fAPH3tQ/s1600-h/AGMG.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 279px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEbMZL7sDilu0zm3AD7Trk9repwu3suXIz-51H45Eo6RZAHkzmaefTdET2qZxadrBst0JjZrUm7zsJuLVzMbfvHWdXOr-bJbtR4TWyazG7Wp8EkeqUVCVQ5zz0Ed2wp_yzFRM0fAPH3tQ/s400/AGMG.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382359192665390434" /></a>As they did for anyone who shares our obsessions, these gentlemen set the pace from the very moment the appeared on the landscape of denim design and they continue to represent the gold-standard within our tradition. The idea that our work turned their heads even briefly is humbling. So humbling in fact we began to think we'd imagined it until the folks at Bread & Butter published their photograph of the occasion in their recap this week.<br /><br />Since all this happened Adriano has also gifted Jason with a copy of a legendary artifact from earlier days. Jason had seen a group photo of <span style="font-weight:bold;">The Genius Group </span>posted on the wall at one of our Italian development partners. The image features some legendary young faces with <span style="font-weight:bold;">Adriano</span> and <span style="font-weight:bold;">Renzo Rosso</span> leading the charge but with the list of luminaries extending much much further. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYwMk3f_F6zlioOKVMcyiTV0pIJvTvIEpTdrYdkmEZL-LU6dskRdjnYpU49r0lVPG7kQcTLQ8l0m6Z2jLPd2I0pRtVzjrLp5b_QQIFnXz-kiJoCextpaJz9Q2cQYsPmji1IVShC_Y4KE/s1600-h/Genius.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 170px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhYwMk3f_F6zlioOKVMcyiTV0pIJvTvIEpTdrYdkmEZL-LU6dskRdjnYpU49r0lVPG7kQcTLQ8l0m6Z2jLPd2I0pRtVzjrLp5b_QQIFnXz-kiJoCextpaJz9Q2cQYsPmji1IVShC_Y4KE/s400/Genius.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5382361830369811986" /></a>His gift is now in our<span style="font-weight:bold;"> Denham Garment Library</span> archive. <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/2009/04/dgl-digital.html">Check it out</a> and see how many you can name.NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-12028066775338271492009-08-18T23:38:00.016+02:002009-08-19T01:28:06.342+02:00POLISHING UP OUR GRADESThe first Fall deliveries have been in long enough now that it's been possible to put around 4 weeks of straight wear on the new straight-legs. The classic 5-pocket<a href="http://issuu.com/denham/docs/bible_2_issue/33"> GRADE</a> models arrived and at least one pair was put to quick use. Summer was waning but there was one last chance to try a near mythical 70's era hippy wash technique. Call it the <span style="font-style:italic;">Hippy Dippy</span>..., -Well maybe.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsUW7iDMd7T1KHIBqUo_tBOURBKDluZxnTHAdytZSIVoK7CMANbo2lDp1BnNWaxMhjw16QMLMrVbg9ro8vATwHFshyKQYX-z7AHMRKgVw4HjhTvUjOjPFaA5I66aFcAWOl3nLVva1D64R_/s1600-h/SoFr1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 279px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsUW7iDMd7T1KHIBqUo_tBOURBKDluZxnTHAdytZSIVoK7CMANbo2lDp1BnNWaxMhjw16QMLMrVbg9ro8vATwHFshyKQYX-z7AHMRKgVw4HjhTvUjOjPFaA5I66aFcAWOl3nLVva1D64R_/s400/SoFr1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371430386683203698" /></a>Simple and probably not overly hygienic since soap is only applied directly to the outside surface, but hell if you scrub enough and rinse enough it should be fresher coming out than when it went in. Since the GRADE is a new style the window of opportunity to put the full 6-months worth of miles on them <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/06/cold-cold-water.html">before washing</a> was restricted. But the model is also a heritage-design and benefits a little from shrink-back once it's stretched out in the first few weeks. Not exactly shrink-to-fit. More like a shot of botox or a modest tuck to get things back closer to where they started.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/okzbRLH6UGY&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/okzbRLH6UGY&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="405" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />We chose the South of France for the experiment. It's a dirty job but somebody had to try it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrYD6faf9W6zbmFfaXNs7xQEItM076UDnxYmYCUNRQciKrvv-Rg2UnIbajjOrLtZJ-kRxmO5Cids9Nfp7WFEtcVeWbwNDYhsi-LURWzDk0SL9BH5QjH2BIr4win2SBTdVL_KCcBhyjFVD/s1600-h/SoFr2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 183px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXrYD6faf9W6zbmFfaXNs7xQEItM076UDnxYmYCUNRQciKrvv-Rg2UnIbajjOrLtZJ-kRxmO5Cids9Nfp7WFEtcVeWbwNDYhsi-LURWzDk0SL9BH5QjH2BIr4win2SBTdVL_KCcBhyjFVD/s400/SoFr2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5371430598549580562" /></a>L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-45875881014424366992009-07-28T10:01:00.015+02:002009-07-28T12:12:27.123+02:00JUDGE A BOOK BY IT'S COVER<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggkfNvaTxjkisxsdA5Bi2yBhY7hh0Tyrpiggdqv0KDiJ9S-K0WL5UBTPIBV-VZoWwmb1PzLn-wLZNrYW5N16vT6vk56KnudAvfmzodibMfpr6olxj5VTQTvw91paG8v3XAIkN8AHXQ1Iw/s1600-h/DSC_0010.jpg" style="text-decoration: none;"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 253px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggkfNvaTxjkisxsdA5Bi2yBhY7hh0Tyrpiggdqv0KDiJ9S-K0WL5UBTPIBV-VZoWwmb1PzLn-wLZNrYW5N16vT6vk56KnudAvfmzodibMfpr6olxj5VTQTvw91paG8v3XAIkN8AHXQ1Iw/s320/DSC_0010.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363446682305487314" /></a><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFFTGIKM9xJbdhPk8A2eUGjL1NBUxoYxyJj7Yh17Q0lg_xmtU2wnZJWcpE7oZ_plNP6cT-RUxqp0yK5CsamiKJEaf7OD-RWnnb63QAafPrMIfdenSVNpRTXpU9uNPZCJfrL-l1SEYK3Zg/s320/DSC_0006+(1).jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363434307531210418" style="display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 234px; " /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTJLjGXVJAhdWFl0KH8BSdrtERxJuBUTapLuVaXQ2rTSpFc7_IZD8LTkB77E8EmkQkpIZTldqGlO8w6Idxo3jJTybhPP42e_1rQ7QnTSFgXXa2zf09rHHpfpKMY19vlzBPCBz3JPbMC5s/s1600-h/DSC_0007.jpg" style="text-decoration: none;"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 250px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTJLjGXVJAhdWFl0KH8BSdrtERxJuBUTapLuVaXQ2rTSpFc7_IZD8LTkB77E8EmkQkpIZTldqGlO8w6Idxo3jJTybhPP42e_1rQ7QnTSFgXXa2zf09rHHpfpKMY19vlzBPCBz3JPbMC5s/s320/DSC_0007.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363434313585261282" /></a><br /><br /><br /></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 238); -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: underline; "><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHdUCTx1Mq9DjQJgpO8eD5RcI8W8yJWFfQZ9UoCN5I85eDjcHUGd_ptybp8ux-RvQm706sDcw22nG53Ey3UK4-krevM4JzQ_d2OmjQ6h1HLUgSC5Z3fQNHFV1O65UK4JMjbtzN8KSPCMI/s320/DSC_0013+(1).jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5363444192226187330" style="float: left; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: 10px; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: 0px; cursor: pointer; width: 211px; height: 320px; " /></span><div>We are pleased to issue volume 2 in a long running series of books that record each collection as a chapter in our history. Lest we not forget our journey.<div>An often likable and some say collectible item, the book is foremost a product guide to share the work and help spread the word with our stores and sales teams. A few books in very limited numbers are held back for purchase in the Denham store. </div><div><br /></div><div>Continuing our letter of intent, we've approached the craft of book design with a modicum of tradition. The result is a considered study of the accepted process of book making,</div><div>challenging the time-honored belief that "a book should not be judged by it's cover".</div><div>In this instance, we feel it should.</div><div><br /></div><div>Although we've temporarily published the contents online at the brilliant issuu.com, </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; border-collapse: collapse; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre; "><div><embed src="http://static.issuu.com/webembed/viewers/style1/v1/IssuuViewer.swf" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" menu="false" quality="high" scale="noscale" salign="l" flashvars="mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Flight%2Flayout.xml&showFlipBtn=true&documentId=090727162505-bc419185ea6c4eb5822d1ef67859ed16&docName=bible_2_issue&username=DENHAM&loadingInfoText=BIBLE%202&et=1248775918178&er=64" style="width:420px;height:303px" name="flashticker" align="middle"></embed><div style="width:420px;text-align:left;"><a href="http://issuu.com/DENHAM/docs/bible_2_issue?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Flight%2Flayout.xml&showFlipBtn=true" target="_blank">Open publication</a> - Free <a href="http://issuu.com" target="_blank">publishing</a> - <a href="http://issuu.com/search?q=the%20jeanmaker" target="_blank">More the jeanmaker</a></div></div></span></div><div><br /></div><div>our preference for a printed book remains unaltered. Adding a timeless spine of influence to your bookshelf. </div><div><br /><div>But conventional book binding has been triumphantly destroyed with the help of a circular saw. We've hacked at the contents to create a double-front cover. Unconventional, slightly brutal, but ultimately functional:</div><div><br /></div><div>Book 1 neatly contains a collection overview</div><div>Book 2 includes press releases, interviews, dedications and photos. As well as a sub-section showing a few pieces from our library of divine revelation: the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY.</div><div><br /></div><div><div>This is however no easy objective. To avoid the pages 'fanning out' the books are first printed, glued and bound, before each book is half-folded, then sawn-off by hand with a spine-chilling razor sharp blade. Aimed with pin-point precision and taking care to avoid the inevitable extended pinky finger. Thankfully no fingers were lost in the making of these books.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>An exercise in cutting-edge craftsmanship from our print engineer. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div></div></div></div>Ali Kirbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11707449654905606094noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-57635608006910671152009-07-19T20:22:00.023+02:002009-07-21T18:55:30.695+02:00FIRES OF THE EAST & WEST<span style="font-weight:bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">Whether fighting the flames in the East or the West, there was a time when Utility </span><span style="font-style:italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">was</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"> Luxury</span><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><br />We said at one point that we don't collect in order to covet. The greed of pure selfish possession would probably embarrass us a bit. We do collect. As a team and as individuals we've been using <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/">archival garments</a> as silent-but-effective personal tutors for a long time and the excitement only increases.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OAIisQTcqrpNeZxQLS52C_4KEypHrSC32o6O8_XqLyw1o9ywgsEwMtZ73T3-aRsytgtHYP9avXxozgVSMEDtc6l5oKmCL4WJrWIjqj4lY1hfiykS_tAnd2JtM9S2rzeNAoRiSo_NiBM/s1600-h/FireFlags.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 151px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-OAIisQTcqrpNeZxQLS52C_4KEypHrSC32o6O8_XqLyw1o9ywgsEwMtZ73T3-aRsytgtHYP9avXxozgVSMEDtc6l5oKmCL4WJrWIjqj4lY1hfiykS_tAnd2JtM9S2rzeNAoRiSo_NiBM/s400/FireFlags.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360263953991880498" /></a>Last week we found a pair of antique Japanese fireman's trousers. When they first caught our eye they looked familiar somehow </span><span style="font-style:italic;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="">(socrates said we experience a sensation of "rightness" during the acquisition of knowledge because our understanding awakens awareness of divine patterns previously dormant in our souls... -but none of us paid that much attention in class).</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Anyway, these trousers awakened awareness of something.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7gGVcoyOCi-dGH_ZfSVZqimhKx6yMiMl5bfZJR2MILc5nnwhJYwD1nrvYpJi1ANHs3UXrb8Ye9oQ3aKFGgzNi3MGj2R424_1NsAUk7po421eeCnFaAxXhXTRDXa1arbB-T-u-niTPi5A/s1600-h/FireCompare1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7gGVcoyOCi-dGH_ZfSVZqimhKx6yMiMl5bfZJR2MILc5nnwhJYwD1nrvYpJi1ANHs3UXrb8Ye9oQ3aKFGgzNi3MGj2R424_1NsAUk7po421eeCnFaAxXhXTRDXa1arbB-T-u-niTPi5A/s400/FireCompare1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360248412083458674" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">It only took another minute or so to remember we owned another pair of work pants believed to be turn-of-the-century fireman's trousers... -Only these came to us by way of</span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUmVV1VtrzS3wq7jgyUFDr9Ffd7HRz4RQLeog0Lj_0DAsuqJcaBSpE_gE2Hb04XZm6m3btGHw6UxwkN073UTG9QObhe1dFheCUhkOd-TgWbEm0oX6OGKiuJL9lvmgCIRr7n1wKt2SYlaXt/s1600-h/DGL116.jpg"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;"> Britain</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">. They're one of the studio's favorites. <span style="font-weight:bold;">Can't Bust 'Em</span>.<br /><br />Compare the two and it's very clear which is from the East and which is from the West. But adjust your perception just a little and the similarities start appearing. Both are crafted from extremely rugged black selvedge fabric. Both show the effect of the natural twist associated with classic denim workwear.<br /></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrCZJrQgemiy_7cqELmoQHBXYTbqlERhZRkKwr04KFkqQWj10RdBMFTtTud8AcrjKmPlwMl2bKx3njFIMZyBTNrjVLJlNbckIjwyOUMfVL_i9OtRa2HMjN8kPMW-TO2J25BW7MtNCT5M/s1600-h/FireCompare1a.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 72px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGrCZJrQgemiy_7cqELmoQHBXYTbqlERhZRkKwr04KFkqQWj10RdBMFTtTud8AcrjKmPlwMl2bKx3njFIMZyBTNrjVLJlNbckIjwyOUMfVL_i9OtRa2HMjN8kPMW-TO2J25BW7MtNCT5M/s400/FireCompare1a.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360250423667316066" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">Turn them both over and the story continues.<br /></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAmwJprpL4whClCTXrCXPRu7-oFkuFmt_C-AQC0d4NfvkAKQWcuiJ8UWEdIwjRricC6DJx2CXBlcLBGbnI-ys-aJ0Eh3_1d7rkoGXXhakMKq29pjP1CCGG8pTfSeuwnMN6Fv6q9Q7tb4Q/s1600-h/FireCompare2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAmwJprpL4whClCTXrCXPRu7-oFkuFmt_C-AQC0d4NfvkAKQWcuiJ8UWEdIwjRricC6DJx2CXBlcLBGbnI-ys-aJ0Eh3_1d7rkoGXXhakMKq29pjP1CCGG8pTfSeuwnMN6Fv6q9Q7tb4Q/s400/FireCompare2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360251020186771346" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: normal;">B</span></span><span style="">oth designs utilize a functional cinch-back. The western variation employing a buckle and the eastern version using a full sash belt wrapped and tied toward the center-front. Both cinches attached in nearly the same location with rugged stitch work just to the right and left of the center-back.<br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRrjWjXLsHec1bWI-lKcmgGADXKqPrydMWQmtOkFOS_z7k2irf6pCZ8EogEqW8Q5Y5i1aklntgcz1w5A4_ga1fmAcQLpSWJIoophkeMCij6nNipF_WMm-OlxOLOzOOqgJFT-qBmapw9w/s1600-h/FireCompare2a.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 55px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzRrjWjXLsHec1bWI-lKcmgGADXKqPrydMWQmtOkFOS_z7k2irf6pCZ8EogEqW8Q5Y5i1aklntgcz1w5A4_ga1fmAcQLpSWJIoophkeMCij6nNipF_WMm-OlxOLOzOOqgJFT-qBmapw9w/s400/FireCompare2a.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360251849887482114" /></a> Both pairs feature cuff-wear on the same leg. The Can't Bust 'Em specimens have been patched with wool, the Japanese pair has yet to be repaired.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSeC49h08Bz44Mzyu0BRcwfOaI-WsEwdzlszRtyIP9xJZndjtLRuM2RneTVdDy-B6GrND7zTenuQJyHbepEIzm6MqjJ_pkvUtTZyKv6LP7FwbkCABUE-vAXIqnUkjNIqWJ1EpW2KoJlVw/s1600-h/FireCompare6.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 144px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSeC49h08Bz44Mzyu0BRcwfOaI-WsEwdzlszRtyIP9xJZndjtLRuM2RneTVdDy-B6GrND7zTenuQJyHbepEIzm6MqjJ_pkvUtTZyKv6LP7FwbkCABUE-vAXIqnUkjNIqWJ1EpW2KoJlVw/s400/FireCompare6.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360254895272447506" /></a>Both pairs use natural plain-weave muslin elements to apply branding. The Can't Bust 'Em pair brands the outside, the Japanese labeling is internal.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4nHh4_D8o8HdZ3LgZIxPdJgrJlazwt81LABjSOpHIui7Ah0soZ2z_4n2MzXQ_Xf-flUHaA28zx8jsRdxBiZMCRidJGeSRDP9eJgUsu9o4Pb7Au5w6DqwpjhDXmC3Kw2A8wR2RmVeOXg/s1600-h/FireCompare5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 144px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP4nHh4_D8o8HdZ3LgZIxPdJgrJlazwt81LABjSOpHIui7Ah0soZ2z_4n2MzXQ_Xf-flUHaA28zx8jsRdxBiZMCRidJGeSRDP9eJgUsu9o4Pb7Au5w6DqwpjhDXmC3Kw2A8wR2RmVeOXg/s400/FireCompare5.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360255694935025602" /></a>Use of the softer muslin extends into the internal waistband treatments on both, though the Can't Bust Em's uses a yarn-dyed stripe/dot fabric. Both use a soft secondary fabric for edging and fly-facings. Brushed moleskin in the case of the Cant' Bust "Em's, and a softer finer indigo-dyed twill on the Japanese design.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgPDr5VdhlUOE4W_ZNyxZR0nPtHdUvzCDVf23a6qkPNPqG0TsTD-3LsYPHIlgfcGV7aQqrurSU5-P7iAk6MZJo5z8ZIlES02Lm0zwXL1pXGU-3B2HtBsdCvlX-Cc0HvH9ap8agaeyLE9U/s1600-h/FireCompare4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 126px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgPDr5VdhlUOE4W_ZNyxZR0nPtHdUvzCDVf23a6qkPNPqG0TsTD-3LsYPHIlgfcGV7aQqrurSU5-P7iAk6MZJo5z8ZIlES02Lm0zwXL1pXGU-3B2HtBsdCvlX-Cc0HvH9ap8agaeyLE9U/s400/FireCompare4.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360256386503396258" /></a>Both feature strong, generously proportioned functional front pockets. The western pair also feature back pockets (a jeanswear innovation).<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40f5UpWmYKOHRta_81IGHHsNyexW2WibaYnCd7bhjXglf1jesPgMCCrmLXnwaSwr4cmGUc9SKpLqOPgOPPdzzXMFhlkjr0Epb5F0W0jCdMjjXFuHHO4xQvlseNwZsnI8o8-jXZYq4f4I/s1600-h/FireCompare3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 151px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40f5UpWmYKOHRta_81IGHHsNyexW2WibaYnCd7bhjXglf1jesPgMCCrmLXnwaSwr4cmGUc9SKpLqOPgOPPdzzXMFhlkjr0Epb5F0W0jCdMjjXFuHHO4xQvlseNwZsnI8o8-jXZYq4f4I/s400/FireCompare3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360257695420284162" /></a>Hey, all this commitment to quality almost verges on luxury by the standards of the day. But we guess whether guys were fighting fires in Great Britain or Japan, utility would have been the real luxury.<br /><br />If you've gotten this far down this posting, God bless your patience. We're just crazy for this stuff. Sue us. But what's more important is what we do with it. And it's this kind of inquiry that has inspired our commitment to our own modest array of construction features. In our case it includes:<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9K4w0cdL8FikLNIL45y4AocDVAcUwl5Kq3U0fs_XxoDPt_l_6NDWo00z1ETt4_ROj5g1QpE29GFecQrv4TK_G_F2bkYVHwR29BB_VOyuOQKzYX_3liKT73tg2z9R5vwkUlCIkkga74hI/s1600-h/DenDet.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9K4w0cdL8FikLNIL45y4AocDVAcUwl5Kq3U0fs_XxoDPt_l_6NDWo00z1ETt4_ROj5g1QpE29GFecQrv4TK_G_F2bkYVHwR29BB_VOyuOQKzYX_3liKT73tg2z9R5vwkUlCIkkga74hI/s400/DenDet.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360816255290922066" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">> Japanese Selvedge<br />> Leather Rivet-Saddles<br />> Fully Bound Internal Flies<br />> 7-Point Anatomical Hip-Pockets<br />> Darted Articulation<br />> Fully Tailored 3xChambray Waistbands</span><br /><br />... -and so on. But to see what we mean or when and where we employ these standards you'll need to come hangout with us.<br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: 11px; white-space: pre-wrap; "><object width="410" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/orfYrrFRxts&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/orfYrrFRxts&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="410" height="344"></embed></object></span>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-27309578551333080852009-07-18T18:59:00.015+02:002009-07-21T18:57:00.128+02:00JUST A BUTTON PART TWO<a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/04/just-button.html">[part one here]</a><br /><br /><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;">When the Product <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">was</span> the Message</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvCVdf9UTVctfyP0PcH44Ubw95bCmXlWMZPgCEi0ar06CG4bdEh62VlPtwdYDnbd3Fd0e_6R8mN9lSi4ZhBlY5Xl_9lNfbfIGJ_dSSMao2LMmiKJB8OO8HlQs8XLkcMoy-Or1JCDFP98/s1600-h/Button0.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidvCVdf9UTVctfyP0PcH44Ubw95bCmXlWMZPgCEi0ar06CG4bdEh62VlPtwdYDnbd3Fd0e_6R8mN9lSi4ZhBlY5Xl_9lNfbfIGJ_dSSMao2LMmiKJB8OO8HlQs8XLkcMoy-Or1JCDFP98/s400/Button0.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359850380596154194" /></a>Our research has been taking us allover the place this season. Lucky us. Sessioning with a Russian & US military uniform expert in Berlin, digging through the archive of an RAF & Royal Navy collector outside Paris... In an odd twist entering the inner-sanctum of a Tokyo collector specializing in turn-of-the-century US western and workwear only later to get the down-low on Japanese textiles from an American in Brooklyn <span style="font-style:italic;">(passion for garment history effectively folding the map pressing the East right up against the West). </span> During these exploits we've curated some incredible new research material for the <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/">DGL</a>.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">On the Button</span><br />A natural part of our design focus is the issue of<span style="font-style:italic;"> <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/2009/04/dgl-digital.html">utility</a></span>. We consider denim and the related world of workwear to fall into the realm of Utility Tailoring. As such the development of very fundemental utilitrarian garment compenents provides endless fascination and inspiration. It allows us all here at Denham and any other label sharing this ambition to <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UGtlUMMkOU">push things forward</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsEKlB9NnipFH8W6jplcQYK3bxc_bG3w3yk2kg6RUNAhyphenhyphen4GxOwkhnULC4C_XXHu71xL3yBswUta6yge4fOeR99GDa81Ug1nd_7N5yrSsICRzb49gbHC6cesJ5Xhc4QE1YNi0iCAceb_Q/s1600-h/Button1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFsEKlB9NnipFH8W6jplcQYK3bxc_bG3w3yk2kg6RUNAhyphenhyphen4GxOwkhnULC4C_XXHu71xL3yBswUta6yge4fOeR99GDa81Ug1nd_7N5yrSsICRzb49gbHC6cesJ5Xhc4QE1YNi0iCAceb_Q/s400/Button1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359851169723039458" /></a>You can't get much more fundamental than a button. Our research recently reminded us of a time when utility was the point, and the product was the message.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirRX1LV9AGAQj_S5AtB25fYq8uBnpwrirWw9zEsMsysQNAwW3EYZF82lsFCyy6x_iid-z4doql_lfAa70ydxiC3D_f9QiZHSOeFwJgNlFylzVdUPk-9YNz_F_2QlHmQ6xSvwamxOkMjI8/s1600-h/Button2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirRX1LV9AGAQj_S5AtB25fYq8uBnpwrirWw9zEsMsysQNAwW3EYZF82lsFCyy6x_iid-z4doql_lfAa70ydxiC3D_f9QiZHSOeFwJgNlFylzVdUPk-9YNz_F_2QlHmQ6xSvwamxOkMjI8/s400/Button2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359851595175406082" /></a>Besides pushing performance in the area of durability, evolving concepts like the shank-assembly and split-ring attachement, buttons from the first golden era of workwear design spelled-out their intentions right down at the detail level. They litterally announced their design objectives.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLYQHMSI2RgPI5A75jHZaWf2xIUcJ-vSjhADyEAy_RaYQuq7bOFbzSj9H_D3VeKb14m0qVlaE8-_MsfkBhJSVo0huvppi0bvHalJs1KVz35FVR50ycBuYGIL37yM3zJIr6xWTdmXB6bA/s1600-h/Button3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLYQHMSI2RgPI5A75jHZaWf2xIUcJ-vSjhADyEAy_RaYQuq7bOFbzSj9H_D3VeKb14m0qVlaE8-_MsfkBhJSVo0huvppi0bvHalJs1KVz35FVR50ycBuYGIL37yM3zJIr6xWTdmXB6bA/s400/Button3.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359856277833749282" /></a>This was the case whether they were aiming to<span style="font-weight:bold;"> <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">wear well</span></span> like<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span><span style="font-weight:bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">anthracite</span></span>, b<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">e </span><span style="font-weight:bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">strong & reliable</span></span>, even as strong as <span style="font-weight:bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">granite</span></span> or the rock of <span style="font-weight:bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">gibraltar</span></span>.<br /><br />If the intention was to ensure you'd <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">never ripum</span> </span>(or alternatively be <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">rip proof</span></span>), they'd deliver <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">sure service</span></span>, offer a <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">true fit</span></span>, have the brand take responsibility to <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">watch the wear</span></span>, load <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">nuff stuff</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span>into the construction so you could think of them as <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">ironalls</span></span> instead of overalls... -if they made the effort to<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> sanforize</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> </span>or use <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">8 oz shrunk</span></span>, then they engraved or embossed that promise where it couldn't be forgotten. Deep into the product. Somewhere along the line, well after this period, the "message" became so disassociated from the product that the marketing took on a life entirely of its own. But these examples are from before all the extravagant aspirational lifestyle claims and media hype, when product and message were less detached from one another. Simpler times we guess.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn8v_m1uuRpLdXA-S1oqtClWJeE3NA1o1dRt47pHn2e-GAR_cNCJnpKpLUb8kzh_-7nP_Vdh0_8b-0Q5B8qYoqdWmaqWYI7IVeSF5UrpzY4uyxnfYp1TJrFiXZ-ME2Qcrpd_s-S3oI-k0/s1600-h/Button4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 109px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn8v_m1uuRpLdXA-S1oqtClWJeE3NA1o1dRt47pHn2e-GAR_cNCJnpKpLUb8kzh_-7nP_Vdh0_8b-0Q5B8qYoqdWmaqWYI7IVeSF5UrpzY4uyxnfYp1TJrFiXZ-ME2Qcrpd_s-S3oI-k0/s400/Button4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359856450391518162" /></a>Not to mention the obvious attention to balancing <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">tradition</span> with <span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;">invention</span> (our own modest obsession), using a traditional button but upgrading the durability by exchanging the convention of weak threads for inventive steel rings. Given all this its a daunting task to try and push it even further forward but we've got resources now they didn't have back. Maybe only little things, like investing in <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/04/just-button.html">solid castings </a>where they were restricted to hollow two-part plus bent-wire assemblies. Every little step contributes something and the more history we experience the more we're inspired to keep pushing.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kKRnHJSp9ba05X5WZZFKsTCFvPM_Rf-V4w5GQ8XAoT_QZqEtLimZBGrYOmpt6RToBTUUt74ocaSiprN2UbAKLdeWHKDqzp2w79-mylqYKMBW5KO0wKpQ4gyEso5osxeXGmXHA3XsdYA/s1600-h/ProtoCasts1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 329px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kKRnHJSp9ba05X5WZZFKsTCFvPM_Rf-V4w5GQ8XAoT_QZqEtLimZBGrYOmpt6RToBTUUt74ocaSiprN2UbAKLdeWHKDqzp2w79-mylqYKMBW5KO0wKpQ4gyEso5osxeXGmXHA3XsdYA/s400/ProtoCasts1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5360266236671463426" /></a>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-59703582571402257522009-07-17T17:25:00.030+02:002009-07-18T17:44:37.564+02:00UNCONVENTIONAL & TRADITIONAL: BROOKLYNWe don't wrestle with internal demons around here too much. <span style="font-style:italic;">Why are we here? What's it all about? </span> We get to spend more time making than thinking. But if we ever did need reassurance it's easy to find in Brooklyn.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzXu7DbMsie-0cqaGqOsYolfvhaaHG5WAJ2I0xy64qQZ_imI2QsHjbnNdSpMbfs00fC8mJYGkTcx34QxcgZUxoBPEKR40SKW0sRZWm6Xsf_07bjX4I1Z0k1iqqxlwgTppu5nmXuS-Md0/s1600-h/KDUvisit1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikzXu7DbMsie-0cqaGqOsYolfvhaaHG5WAJ2I0xy64qQZ_imI2QsHjbnNdSpMbfs00fC8mJYGkTcx34QxcgZUxoBPEKR40SKW0sRZWm6Xsf_07bjX4I1Z0k1iqqxlwgTppu5nmXuS-Md0/s400/KDUvisit1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359456435420789106" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">UNCONVENTIONAL CRAFT AT THE KDU</span><br /><a href="http://www.thekdu.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=4&Itemid=3">David Gensler, Aerosyn-Lex and Portia Wells</a> put some time aside to show us what they've been up to. Here's where we should say that these folks navigate within the realms of creative strategists and denizens of new design. As such they have plenty of cool "clients"<span style="font-style:italic;"> (including a couple denim brands),</span> but our connection to this passionate posse is not professional. It's cultural. Besides they have enough clients and we don't use agencies.<br /><br /><object width="405" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ClShGTBlJGs&hl=en&fs=1&"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ClShGTBlJGs&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="405" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />Peek through their Brooklyn porthole and you're looking into an intense mix of activities, values and influences. We were particularly inspired by the crazy attention to fabric-development within their own SvSv collection where they employ pure musk ox<a href="http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-qiviut-.htm"> qiviuk</a> among other things . We were also floored by our first real-life exposure to their unbelievable collection of antique tailor's shears... it's reassuring to know we're getting help salvaging and caring for these priceless forbearers of our <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/2009/04/category-jackets-coats.html">shared tradition</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjah8pZbBy5bqb91YXzrB35rkmNGZ0g3xTiTiHS6tKALQzGbB5ZFjXBw25afvjDU1Yta-PUPQCnYvnrSu6wSI-w_ihV9NueqEgxfAJp44bbwDxpH3vM6Lc7gopZduQbPIOZgepJKkZ696U/s1600-h/KDUvisit4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjah8pZbBy5bqb91YXzrB35rkmNGZ0g3xTiTiHS6tKALQzGbB5ZFjXBw25afvjDU1Yta-PUPQCnYvnrSu6wSI-w_ihV9NueqEgxfAJp44bbwDxpH3vM6Lc7gopZduQbPIOZgepJKkZ696U/s400/KDUvisit4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359525580205114658" /></a>True to the notion that we need to <span style="font-style:italic;">share</span> this tradition even as we push it forward, they honored the ethic more deeply as we parted ways by entrusting us with the first pair of shears they ever acquired. Judging by the shape and the ornate scabbard they maybe more suitable for an obscure martial-art than for garment-making, but the workmanship is insane.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">WORSHIPING TRADITION WITH AN EXPERT</span><br />It's a really good day when you can bracket it with learning on both ends. Destroy a little convention at breakfast, worship a little tradition before lunch. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTB6_ukLeG2GTmL3lQpNB11G-zF2SecWj6XRwNITwqOJABq19YLNzhf51KHLAWYWNk7FmxkIJ7x84wzZ_c-2WhXPMqF8PdxuR6hjhr9QEHHgZWpXL0WUDI9WAGMzhCAEWslhNMgyM_29A/s1600-h/StevenVisit0.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTB6_ukLeG2GTmL3lQpNB11G-zF2SecWj6XRwNITwqOJABq19YLNzhf51KHLAWYWNk7FmxkIJ7x84wzZ_c-2WhXPMqF8PdxuR6hjhr9QEHHgZWpXL0WUDI9WAGMzhCAEWslhNMgyM_29A/s400/StevenVisit0.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359469004869182018" /></a>From chewing the fat with Gensler and crew in the morning, the afternoon offered a chance to meditate among a mind-boggling and spirit-moving range indigo drenched folk textiles from Japan as well as Korea and India. Keeper of both the relics and the knowledge, Stephen Sczcepanek, deepened our understanding and appreciation of these traditions well beyond our expectations, given the brief couple of hours we spent with him.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wTTBwGtS3tvRKqb5SipjDvkB3jCXi9jesJEz5tR2gjs7nmFOk_fL56wC0ecmU6IXCcfqldnSzcPw_riWypBd4_JXjklHdJaqiGrf6A3gtQOETqUSoecM54hNX51Q3psJ8xQCyoEQMIs/s1600-h/StevenVisit1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6wTTBwGtS3tvRKqb5SipjDvkB3jCXi9jesJEz5tR2gjs7nmFOk_fL56wC0ecmU6IXCcfqldnSzcPw_riWypBd4_JXjklHdJaqiGrf6A3gtQOETqUSoecM54hNX51Q3psJ8xQCyoEQMIs/s400/StevenVisit1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359469620566730962" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkzuQlqx765eUxE2aj47ytbsUriupovIUz71rSA_37gq8n3kVQC0H7QM44JbA9sL0LGsUIehNw-zske7WeGBUPZ-DjGrg9Rog74T_rrjbidGHlsNYG4JPV8eOG891E4RAxUl7qh5ajGE/s1600-h/StevenVisit2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDkzuQlqx765eUxE2aj47ytbsUriupovIUz71rSA_37gq8n3kVQC0H7QM44JbA9sL0LGsUIehNw-zske7WeGBUPZ-DjGrg9Rog74T_rrjbidGHlsNYG4JPV8eOG891E4RAxUl7qh5ajGE/s400/StevenVisit2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359510214085272194" /></a>He shared new specimens like ultra-delicate Korean wrapping cloth, deeply patinaed Japanese pawnshop paper, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wisteria">wisteria</a> yarns gathered from jungle vines to be spliced together by hand (not "spun") and woven into one of the rarest fabrics in the world. <span style="font-style:italic;">We're not kidding.<br /></span><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5jrJM0Zp9KE6z6yPbMCz63vFq_c0DqOwB-cSRrRPX1rKqAOypTi6sTov5QitBL6_Qs2oOEzvOtTte3_Q_K0L8YY7vXz2WsbPjOImHjHn-4kOk3IPvDF-fq9mRVRgoa6mZUvwfC4N7Go/s1600-h/StevenVisit4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA5jrJM0Zp9KE6z6yPbMCz63vFq_c0DqOwB-cSRrRPX1rKqAOypTi6sTov5QitBL6_Qs2oOEzvOtTte3_Q_K0L8YY7vXz2WsbPjOImHjHn-4kOk3IPvDF-fq9mRVRgoa6mZUvwfC4N7Go/s400/StevenVisit4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359520501194041474" /></a>And, of course, there was a tonal kaleidoscope of indigo infused <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/06/something-borod.html">Boro specimens</a>.NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-45894458919088652202009-07-17T11:15:00.004+02:002009-07-17T17:08:05.531+02:00DAZEDThanks very much to the stand-up folks over at <a href="http://www.dazeddigital.com/Fashion/article/4063/1/Denham_Denim">Dazed & Confused </a>for helping spread the word this week.L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-79105785523321082012009-07-17T10:33:00.003+02:002009-07-17T10:47:31.066+02:00THE GARMENT WORKERA bronze tailor by Judith Weller gifted to the City of New York in 1984 signifying a gateway to <span style="font-style:italic;">Fashion Avenue</span>. <br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmAsKauQ5L3E22r50tndFiRkTOgqJfUF5I6xBFJRXCk694nDmfbjq-213WUAZg7qmRwdofwyU2OJTZ7X10IwguvlePKJ_3VHD2m55GtOgU77uKe7qmwAtdjwrBSk24LFQNeB4K9SeeW4V0/s1600-h/TheGarmentWorker.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 245px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmAsKauQ5L3E22r50tndFiRkTOgqJfUF5I6xBFJRXCk694nDmfbjq-213WUAZg7qmRwdofwyU2OJTZ7X10IwguvlePKJ_3VHD2m55GtOgU77uKe7qmwAtdjwrBSk24LFQNeB4K9SeeW4V0/s400/TheGarmentWorker.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5359345854826324994" /></a><br />That much at least is indicated on the plaque. But how he got his hands on our jeans is beyond us, we don't even have distribution in the States. From the look of it we assumed he was practicing the <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/06/home-repair.html">spiral stitch technique</a> for an updated darn-type repair.L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-4764880688126572772009-07-08T11:18:00.008+02:002009-07-08T11:41:05.515+02:00YANK-EE INGENUITYNormally when we talk about <span style="font-style:italic;">Yankee Ingenuity</span> we're talking about our shared tradition of making inventive utilitarian improvements to denim and workwear. But this is a whole different take on getting <span style="font-style:italic;">yankee</span>.<br /><br /><object id="ep_player" name="ep_player" height="250" width="360" data="http://cdn.episodic.com/player/EpisodicPlayer.swf?config=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.episodic.com%2Fshows%2F53%2Fm31i7pzq0su9%2Fconfig.xml" type="application/x-shockwave-flash"><param name="movie" value="http://cdn.episodic.com/player/EpisodicPlayer.swf?config=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.episodic.com%2Fshows%2F53%2Fm31i7pzq0su9%2Fconfig.xml"/><param name="AllowScriptAccess" value="always"/><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"/><embedsrc="http://cdn.episodic.com/player/EpisodicPlayer.swf?config=http%3A%2F%2Fcdn.episodic.com%2Fshows%2F53%2Fm31i7pzq0su9%2Fconfig.xml" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" AllowScriptAccess="always" width="360" height="250" id="ep_player" name="ep_player"/></object><br /><br />Thanks to facebook, I'm slightly ashamed to admit, there are some cool folks digging in the archives for us. Most of their contributions are tangible and end up as specimens in in the <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/">DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY</a>. This one isn't and we've got almost no reason to post it except that it makes us really really smile. To this day denim trends and big marketing concepts are still fickle mistresses, so even now we're not laughing <span style="font-style:italic;">at it</span>. We're laughing <span style="font-style:italic;">with it</span>.L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-56895927307526883622009-07-07T12:36:00.012+02:002009-07-07T13:16:47.753+02:00BLUESPOKEA friend of ours is getting married. We'll leave him his privacy but we thought the project we helped him with might provide some council for other folks investigating bespoke.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGSpEA-6vZ_EAK0b9bBd-R1EaHmVeYRbluTN836KVO0W-S5sBwqOoigTa2HZbJiSsfgREWvvmwk11Dm_KuDKhtCYWWvg0r-XcJXmkUPZhSYa7SwvSRpBcaVs5lfOun6wSzSgoDxD5rTqMx/s1600-h/DenimBespoke2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 282px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGSpEA-6vZ_EAK0b9bBd-R1EaHmVeYRbluTN836KVO0W-S5sBwqOoigTa2HZbJiSsfgREWvvmwk11Dm_KuDKhtCYWWvg0r-XcJXmkUPZhSYa7SwvSRpBcaVs5lfOun6wSzSgoDxD5rTqMx/s400/DenimBespoke2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355672541074114242" /></a><br />His idea was to create a fully tailored wedding suit using our selvedge denim. Cool enough.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7i1MgX00nyksWe-tZ0FAE7yp94y162GHpB2cSFFyBceDWzGWn9EG-QjsvjUlNhq4k_fV5zpgozNJx1N_-2XG6d6P5bBqbZ6kVSesdharXv7b1cFPlpLkUHShWOTL2LC36FSnok5gAPhQ/s1600-h/DenimBespoke0.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 282px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO7i1MgX00nyksWe-tZ0FAE7yp94y162GHpB2cSFFyBceDWzGWn9EG-QjsvjUlNhq4k_fV5zpgozNJx1N_-2XG6d6P5bBqbZ6kVSesdharXv7b1cFPlpLkUHShWOTL2LC36FSnok5gAPhQ/s400/DenimBespoke0.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355672202973310306" /></a><br />Whether he anticipated this or not, his concept essentially sets up a glorious collision between two giants of menswear tradition. <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beau_Brummell">Beau Brummel</a> and <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacob_Davis">Jacob Davis</a>. The former considered the father of modern suiting and a legendary arbiter of style. The later being the crazy utility tailor and sometime tinker who risked ridicule by slamming machine-rivets into work pants creating the archetypal blue jean.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/894l6GB8XU4&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/894l6GB8XU4&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="405" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />We've got an addiction to both around here so the request captured our imaginations. We suggested our fabric be crafted into suiting by <a href="http://www.newtailor.nl/pakken/index.html">New Tailor</a>, with ateliers here in Amsterdam and Utrecht. They work in consort with a team of artisans on Savile Row in Mayfair, former stomping ground of the original "Beau" mentioned above.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheiftDhmLLPmkMIU8qvwN5TdHllBekXSgQYeawRUjnJbczGCSJlQjUsSqMBn_rLrXzRfGxhdfWcpeyd17wJGColIOsy7obGgQderH4oaZtcuiXbVPf4pW1kogTPGmJeqHwvydp1wefloBZ/s1600-h/DenimBespoke1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 282px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheiftDhmLLPmkMIU8qvwN5TdHllBekXSgQYeawRUjnJbczGCSJlQjUsSqMBn_rLrXzRfGxhdfWcpeyd17wJGColIOsy7obGgQderH4oaZtcuiXbVPf4pW1kogTPGmJeqHwvydp1wefloBZ/s400/DenimBespoke1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355673264419131570" /></a><br />We were also honored to be the last stop for the finished suit. Jason attached the <span style="font-style:italic;">(kissing)</span> and other buttons here at the studio where our denim fabric was re-introduced to our signature findings in the final stretch of the suit's completion.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWFxAtKpf3wlqLEKOYV6CC2ZkC8oF9FXqC7DesLGjPc71p921CuGQnmc2UFP8G7dn_k5mQVXVG98sIAgjrON_L2bY8OHfCExTh-7K0VIRA9SouZwNcD4B37Oatl2LZ6BlDJlOhW5W_GyGB/s1600-h/DenimBespoke3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 282px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWFxAtKpf3wlqLEKOYV6CC2ZkC8oF9FXqC7DesLGjPc71p921CuGQnmc2UFP8G7dn_k5mQVXVG98sIAgjrON_L2bY8OHfCExTh-7K0VIRA9SouZwNcD4B37Oatl2LZ6BlDJlOhW5W_GyGB/s400/DenimBespoke3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355673469497062594" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1uGlOn4H7v94DFJUZxeCWQ-T7ZihYIsLxkkT-dEVT_OdKGfFk3j_5GnbI6HkLLeeSCdyQlto-zhgI9otrkk1CteLLsPxr1Uq8pqlplpvIoShKbAqAPqeORVK8qo0TKr2VSLntqv9eOSDq/s1600-h/DenimBespoke4.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 282px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1uGlOn4H7v94DFJUZxeCWQ-T7ZihYIsLxkkT-dEVT_OdKGfFk3j_5GnbI6HkLLeeSCdyQlto-zhgI9otrkk1CteLLsPxr1Uq8pqlplpvIoShKbAqAPqeORVK8qo0TKr2VSLntqv9eOSDq/s400/DenimBespoke4.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355673674751117874" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4nuCnDBpAsoA4uCpyIMyF-0bBaOo0OVSchgqL9E7ZCRo_oGHW64acnj0xr1Iuzqs7RfaX5HT4H5x4hyGi0mdb9063z2x8JpNa2shH2RI2j1KZzyjb0vI3ztvzojZ6jlF4-Vs03JFaSUjt/s1600-h/DenimBespoke5.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 282px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4nuCnDBpAsoA4uCpyIMyF-0bBaOo0OVSchgqL9E7ZCRo_oGHW64acnj0xr1Iuzqs7RfaX5HT4H5x4hyGi0mdb9063z2x8JpNa2shH2RI2j1KZzyjb0vI3ztvzojZ6jlF4-Vs03JFaSUjt/s400/DenimBespoke5.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355673678933135186" /></a>L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-1943195148092856852009-07-06T22:04:00.013+02:002009-07-11T13:38:38.189+02:00THEN WE TAKE BERLINLeonard Cohen wrote it. <a href="http://www.myspace.com/theantecedents">The Antecedents</a> reworked it. Last week, <a href="http://www.top-of-salzburg.at/pdf/DenimSpinner_x409_E.pdf">we lived it</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyVMO-JR2_1RwM4pmE70ilxs_AOezXpyyRe51NjAApm_reAYR4mQDzjNUnrCllAL-BdHkewr6_8josRt9-uNvDRms86E4Th5KKDZEc7UXDdAdI2y9pg4jSPH8i6uaWn6yloFRco9Lfn0EI/s1600-h/DSC_0043.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyVMO-JR2_1RwM4pmE70ilxs_AOezXpyyRe51NjAApm_reAYR4mQDzjNUnrCllAL-BdHkewr6_8josRt9-uNvDRms86E4Th5KKDZEc7UXDdAdI2y9pg4jSPH8i6uaWn6yloFRco9Lfn0EI/s400/DSC_0043.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355436787322089842" /></a><br />Honestly we hope these posts are read by folks other than industry types, so for the benefit of those who wear jeans for love instead of selling them for money we'll provide a lightnening-fast account of Bread & Butter. <br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">Here goes:</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWidQwqvlPQdl1eMbmcv_s5V9jKkYx8NpRQqIBkQ1FqP3D_Ap8Rw3VKWVemSPOBVYmtGEFDZ_ApawACam2egdrgFmdDqmRLjT4hOrw9TIa2zBuxeFj0k6jTXRsV7chAvmyi2XykF5zoPk7/s1600-h/Stand+BBB.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWidQwqvlPQdl1eMbmcv_s5V9jKkYx8NpRQqIBkQ1FqP3D_Ap8Rw3VKWVemSPOBVYmtGEFDZ_ApawACam2egdrgFmdDqmRLjT4hOrw9TIa2zBuxeFj0k6jTXRsV7chAvmyi2XykF5zoPk7/s400/Stand+BBB.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355437074311806466" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">A.</span> Big giant trade show in Berlin. <span style="font-weight:bold;">B.</span> Jeanmakers set-up. <span style="font-weight:bold;"> C.</span> Store buyers visit. <span style="font-weight:bold;">D. </span>Wares are shown. <span style="font-weight:bold;">E.</span> Flesh is pressed. <span style="font-weight:bold;">F.</span> Final consumers are left almost entirely out of the equation which is a damn shame really. <br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/k-uBya-A1Og&hl=en&fs=1&"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/k-uBya-A1Og&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="410" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />This season the organizers of the show in Berlin created a much needed area for what they described as <span style="font-style:italic;">Labels of Common Kin</span>, or<span style="font-weight:bold;"> L.O.C.K.</span> Among other characatersisticss the brands housed in the space were meant to represent <span style="font-style:italic;">"substantial craftsmanship"</span>. We were invited and we were pleased to be in such good company. This is supposed to be our blog but we'll extend a shout-out to folks like England's <a href="http://www.cabourn.com/">Nigel Cabourn</a>, Montreal's <a href="http://www.nakedandfamousdenim.com/">Naked & Famous</a> and Ibara city in Okayama's PH7 all whose work was inspiring.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen7QSXlhmEEC_ZB7T3YoGKOTTo5Wki_ciKUae6yB0Puju8dHMpfTGlrg-4wwTpSVy-N0uRLcRDLAgIbhEOCXEwL5_hWSHJf2lE4UFlZ_EK_NRPFZVU-c8cxHLccDWfyRsM3XVyW7E3kee/s1600-h/Stand+4+BBB.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 268px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgen7QSXlhmEEC_ZB7T3YoGKOTTo5Wki_ciKUae6yB0Puju8dHMpfTGlrg-4wwTpSVy-N0uRLcRDLAgIbhEOCXEwL5_hWSHJf2lE4UFlZ_EK_NRPFZVU-c8cxHLccDWfyRsM3XVyW7E3kee/s400/Stand+4+BBB.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355437619957733506" /></a><br />Given the industry focus of these escepades we're left with slightly mixed feelings. We want to pay as much attention to the craft, detail and innovation of the presentation as we do on the product but we're mildly bummed that it's not something everyone gets to see. To ease the pain a little we extended our store-concept as the atmoshpere of the booth so your visit with us in Amsterdam should hopefully have the same vibe.<br /><br />But, it's not a store, it's a trade-show. So it goes up in a matter of days and the process looks a bit like the impressions we've provided here.L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-86182929331258585612009-07-06T20:55:00.027+02:002009-07-07T11:47:29.626+02:00SAME AT IS NEVER WASFeeding our heads. In Berlin and at home. Anywhere there's wifi or a modem.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD_zPlqlnSMQ3CJxLmBSG-x898J0HYj4ARcW0O5QlbFJHKgMjdGpHYq04Ivo4aLYagAWwiIKmpYahBoZDZmHnbFNqWqJfMnYAm7H0YvV1hLqkcXGsrhZzJVqvVZEbk70YLuD-CQIrtNLfn/s1600-h/DGLvirt.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 188px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD_zPlqlnSMQ3CJxLmBSG-x898J0HYj4ARcW0O5QlbFJHKgMjdGpHYq04Ivo4aLYagAWwiIKmpYahBoZDZmHnbFNqWqJfMnYAm7H0YvV1hLqkcXGsrhZzJVqvVZEbk70YLuD-CQIrtNLfn/s400/DGLvirt.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355636072435941570" /></a>During Bread & Butter we also stuffed most of the content of our DGL archive into a bank of four video-goggles to allow guests to share in the inspiration. One pair was stolen from the exhibit actually, but whoever snagged it forgot to take the converter so we're afraid both sides ended up stymied by the caper.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/KmnLynWQfJo&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/KmnLynWQfJo&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="405" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />The fact you can buy technology only recently limited to <a href="http://www.fearthegooberzilla.com/podcasts/strangedays_071407.mp3">cyberpunk romps</a> like <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU14evKo-v4">Strange Days</a> and <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_CaxYF56jY">Johnny Mnemonic</a> in the electronics shop at the airport doesn't make us feel old, it makes us feel lucky.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCHTm4oA7m_vpgwbYQGQnQzlKlckbEcO71G6Pwv20rbImFFKBDOmwuEiBzw62CgVSZ_gNkCVf0kSfKkqHFQUGawM_APiosw4yuzMB3itCNJnd7eyzU33JlGvnmNiFwcNt8od6ref_xP5S/s1600-h/DGLvirt2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 188px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCHTm4oA7m_vpgwbYQGQnQzlKlckbEcO71G6Pwv20rbImFFKBDOmwuEiBzw62CgVSZ_gNkCVf0kSfKkqHFQUGawM_APiosw4yuzMB3itCNJnd7eyzU33JlGvnmNiFwcNt8od6ref_xP5S/s400/DGLvirt2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355644747753459298" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUyJwPoWDvQtd7BoNxPaF46tOFcN9d7Ufa02uCO-qNlfp8-TjhH2a790M72gXlK2YOO1HuPjUKDSCrMvm0rdsmw-n56gMWKRYkhGUnV7Qr44KhE53yLmxIFg5LFj0BSxSPuYVCnr5P8Yi/s1600-h/DGLvirt3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 188px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitUyJwPoWDvQtd7BoNxPaF46tOFcN9d7Ufa02uCO-qNlfp8-TjhH2a790M72gXlK2YOO1HuPjUKDSCrMvm0rdsmw-n56gMWKRYkhGUnV7Qr44KhE53yLmxIFg5LFj0BSxSPuYVCnr5P8Yi/s400/DGLvirt3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5355647383001125762" /></a><br />As readers of our postings here will already know, we host a separate online environment to share the same archive more broadly. Help yourself <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/">here</a>.L. Maherhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08421613973871309285noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-53906557148199414182009-06-27T18:41:00.022+02:002009-07-07T02:48:20.626+02:00COLD COLD WATERPassion of ownership. Like the scene in <span style="font-style:italic;">Quadrophenia</span> when the Pete Townshend character as just washed his<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEQcTSwEhkkRIddSfjQGNyQeNv-F1FtaZhLTzTfzsZavM8sUk_Srixwnk0ZWT1FByqf1EQ5Gr0CvqDbHOaTPbCvzGHT5eKOC2C59CMIdnuLos00RHIG3BokkqVtzRq0tKGfh9cSzpuyo/s1600-h/Quadrophenia.jpg"> jeans </a>in the bath. A great moment in cinema and a cool reminder of the boyish pride we're allowed to take in maintaining stuff in the right way.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_Zo8OsW2-WPhJ303PsCSorsf-qU1EfqB84lo5U3fpWgqJ9f01OF6ihdL5OsQfr7aU5eCvnqbFn1Sx0fz1-cGtftrOgMlMUZ-nvoucznZbQizcPN2WR-WkKF24wGFsprKMb-tRnYMGgM/s1600-h/Quadrophenia2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 383px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv_Zo8OsW2-WPhJ303PsCSorsf-qU1EfqB84lo5U3fpWgqJ9f01OF6ihdL5OsQfr7aU5eCvnqbFn1Sx0fz1-cGtftrOgMlMUZ-nvoucznZbQizcPN2WR-WkKF24wGFsprKMb-tRnYMGgM/s400/Quadrophenia2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5352057283803916866" /></a><br />For us the right way goes easy on the shrink effect since skin tight, at least on men's jeans, isn't what we're after. But washing your jeans the right way absolutely brings them to life, magnifies character and personalizes the fit. Ali had worn his long enough that they were nearly able to walk around on their own, and that's about the minimum time to wait before washing if you want to generate the best character lines and natural color contrasts afterwards.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZQ_Ro5r9q0E&hl=en&fs=1&"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ZQ_Ro5r9q0E&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="410" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />Here's our advice. <span style="font-weight:bold;">It's easy</span>: <span style="font-weight:bold;">1.</span> Cold water with natural soap powder. <span style="font-weight:bold;">2.</span> Invert your jeans and slide them in. <span style="font-weight:bold;">3.</span> Hand wash and enjoy the process, work the fabric, swish 'em around, exercise a little finesse. <span style="font-weight:bold;">4. </span>Dump the soapy/dirty wash-water and reload with another helping of cold cold water as a rinse.<span style="font-weight:bold;"> 5.</span> Rinse the same way you washed. <span style="font-weight:bold;">6.</span> Handwork the jeans as they're submersed. <span style="font-weight:bold;">7. </span>Pull 'em out, wring them out, turn them back the right-side-out and hang them vertically to dry. <span style="font-weight:bold;">8.</span> -But before you walk away and let science, nature and evaporation do their thing, take one more pass at handworking the damp jeans into shape. Work through the seams and creases, shape the legs and get 'em expressing the attitude you like. <span style="font-weight:bold;"> 9.</span> Then walk away and let nature take its course.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight:bold;">OR... </span>Follow the technique of Sir Bob of <span style="font-weight:bold;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 153);">Butcher of Blue</span> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: italic;"> (and Denham) </span>who puts even more punk into the process. Check it out <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bLznSJcUT5s">HERE</a><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEQcTSwEhkkRIddSfjQGNyQeNv-F1FtaZhLTzTfzsZavM8sUk_Srixwnk0ZWT1FByqf1EQ5Gr0CvqDbHOaTPbCvzGHT5eKOC2C59CMIdnuLos00RHIG3BokkqVtzRq0tKGfh9cSzpuyo/s1600-h/Quadrophenia.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 327px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEQcTSwEhkkRIddSfjQGNyQeNv-F1FtaZhLTzTfzsZavM8sUk_Srixwnk0ZWT1FByqf1EQ5Gr0CvqDbHOaTPbCvzGHT5eKOC2C59CMIdnuLos00RHIG3BokkqVtzRq0tKGfh9cSzpuyo/s400/Quadrophenia.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5352057430523109490" /></a>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-55519510175087887372009-06-26T19:15:00.011+02:002009-07-07T02:33:22.668+02:00HOME REPAIRThe fact good jeans are an investment is dumb-obvious. If you're reading this blog, you already know that. The fact that there are so many ways to look after that investment, with so many different possible results, is partly what makes denim culture such a kick-in-the-pants.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8Bp52NiiykgJq5yE_RzZkw3jO5x7YUs0nkUc62kfqpCTLOHJHzqlumv1ijKb0cTE1zd2ShuPiCsSNGfAE3Y0xiyQgh4FSzLT9c3OY5OIbD4K97vftC9axp0z75q6GgB2c2UybiiMIRs/s1600-h/FoundALife.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8Bp52NiiykgJq5yE_RzZkw3jO5x7YUs0nkUc62kfqpCTLOHJHzqlumv1ijKb0cTE1zd2ShuPiCsSNGfAE3Y0xiyQgh4FSzLT9c3OY5OIbD4K97vftC9axp0z75q6GgB2c2UybiiMIRs/s400/FoundALife.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5351735849280812978" /></a>About five years ago, James Harlan came across an abandoned shack near the Dan River above Greensboro. Instead of South Carolina ginseng Harlan found himself rooting through a tobacco sharecropper's trash and hauling home a pile of worn-out denim covered with wasps' nests....<br /><br />The <a href="http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_hb4298/is_200506/ai_n14943884/">Harlan Find</a> was commemorated in the A-Life designed mini catalog, FOUND. It's a remarkable thing. Among other things it managed to use pictures to teach a particularly dignified approach to home-repair. It's a technique we were already familiar with having examined it as it appears on specimens in the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgit9G0Rn22dLYQw1U-EaWBM9Niv5ceyefUgDJYVGbTB-eeTfRuLNULgfzDs0kcfVgt5JpBCCP7Ng7zg-3fws6tMoGAAGCSbPUnjrN4g8OnwG-_bCnbKSdjbVRB9ZmIaSPKISGlRNXWUiw2/s1600-h/DGL132.jpg">DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY</a>.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/lgT2PQoLpNI&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/lgT2PQoLpNI&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="410" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />You could call it a "darn-type" and it uses a spiral stitch and backside patch to repair wear areas with a forthright rural dignity. We use a machine 'cuz we have one but it's based on a hand-stitch technique. <br /><br />Jason managed to grind through portions of the heel cuff roll on his <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/04/incubating-nine-months.html">Tapers</a><span style="font-style:italic;"> (remember, a couple of the guys ran them 9 months straight without a break)</span>, and took the opportunity to demonstrate the process here in the atelier.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMR-KlU1T7vEY4bhx41sDktVGTsEVi5TjzYwW_gUzOBlahFXwn2lkZ_E8Q558E7vPPWmDRCSYq1n560G1NEnK3IX6GDlD2tg4n5fvVahjejsOWAr_QxpP1VyagtCJsv9E1rwTWV9_HZa4/s1600-h/Darntype.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMR-KlU1T7vEY4bhx41sDktVGTsEVi5TjzYwW_gUzOBlahFXwn2lkZ_E8Q558E7vPPWmDRCSYq1n560G1NEnK3IX6GDlD2tg4n5fvVahjejsOWAr_QxpP1VyagtCJsv9E1rwTWV9_HZa4/s400/Darntype.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5351692751541777362" /></a><br />Not as flashy and trashy as an LA rock-star. -But different strokes for different folks. We like both extremes depending on the mood. More important is that the TAKING CARE ethos makes living in any pair of premium-quality jeans a dynamic and one-of-a-kind experience. Hell yeah.NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-82198696228625984652009-06-22T16:12:00.013+02:002009-07-07T02:37:58.660+02:00ONE KILO MELTONWe told the <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/06/call-medic.html">story</a> of the 1 Kilo Melton "Medic" style for men which will be landing here as part of the new Fall collection. At some point it occurred to us that 100 pieces of 10cm x 10cm would constitute 1sqm of fabric. It also occurred to us that if we placed those 100 pieces all on top of each other, it would make a pretty thick and soft stack of melton. And finally, that this stack would weigh the same kilo of the original 1sqm piece.<br /><br />So we tried it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Yhp4mjYOHyOQkU02R8TVOibGtA7RFxZwO5Ne_Zj0e-DRctc5KzuBGdKd6SMSt1bzUAC8BUgxwq99irXm0NbVTrBcldeMLKVxiK0gptWz3RpRzUgdDOBWqOX2XvxxVyGbutCHjrzB46U/s1600-h/IkiloStackBlog.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Yhp4mjYOHyOQkU02R8TVOibGtA7RFxZwO5Ne_Zj0e-DRctc5KzuBGdKd6SMSt1bzUAC8BUgxwq99irXm0NbVTrBcldeMLKVxiK0gptWz3RpRzUgdDOBWqOX2XvxxVyGbutCHjrzB46U/s400/IkiloStackBlog.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350159762956197538" /></a><br />This gives some impression of the quality's substance and character.<br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/_MPt_o0M2Ss&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/_MPt_o0M2Ss&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="405" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />We also keep telling the story of our regular use of traditional garments as starting-off points for design from our own archive, the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY. On a recent trip abroad we stumbled on a gorgeous men's battle-dress or "Ike" <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/2009/04/dgl-digital_06.html">jacket</a> that reminded us why we chose this melton in the first place.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrbN_cXhScdS1lVB0DE2UEbvD_uuK-wjPtTNDohFNIR_xopL8PN9wE0O5xMDDYZwm8mDh2Gx23Q75lIkE3DxgncWe_zPll2ATnWgVBA-uWFg0b_L_iD_2Kf78uch_rYaNHAx_OCxAOwE/s1600-h/IkiloDGLblog.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYrbN_cXhScdS1lVB0DE2UEbvD_uuK-wjPtTNDohFNIR_xopL8PN9wE0O5xMDDYZwm8mDh2Gx23Q75lIkE3DxgncWe_zPll2ATnWgVBA-uWFg0b_L_iD_2Kf78uch_rYaNHAx_OCxAOwE/s400/IkiloDGLblog.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350160072896226178" /></a><br />A design-standard for the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrkBzTIYR3IafZq8wKvXM-Wf6lzYdGIXPWDtvkeQ4nyOunPrPnjds_vcOgTFHShpdXl8T45DrcAaXiBhlQkBSHY5XHGjFnv1bu8s6jg3GKxOnbSuLs47wLbS2uS3dkOLRGI4tu4ngsNa8/s1600-h/Kilo0.jpg">British Royal Navy</a>, this specimen carries all of the original tag <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNe2su4v7IUdNAbVs0Iwmp0gHONbTyZEo-Awt_2Y9B2d96-tPtURVczRBKSDIkiT9M8digON3CmJr-OvU1Nw8sa6gpQr74HBCg6Q6ubVRxFs9aDPSlnsbuGcZYktzRnQtjnIXGpBmmqxM/s1600-h/Kilo2.jpg">documentation</a> attached via a <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMhr55DZ_SYS0iG6rwiNEGHWOLmQNB7ER-MZwViwO58HsmjE97CBE6Yrb6jhFoiDCKN6hkSupXpd2SL4TlLa_XQypH7gKPZnMVgozbbU4QzAXsXoqj7SvGQ0QjWx5PeOpkRVk2VOrvVTA/s1600-h/Kilo3.jpg">lead seal</a> (still intact) indicating that it is to be used as the design-reference for tailors and producers who were expected to create this style for serviceman. This is an essentially a 3-dimensional design file issued by the British Admiralty. It also bears the names, dates and signatures of those who had "signed it out" (like a library book) in order to ensure design consistency and reliable quality. The piece was issued by the <a href="http://www.articleclick.com/Article/Royal-Navy-uniform/1043575">Admiralty</a> in 1946.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij58BbEiwv8hOI-5F6Q2lJpcEqnZ4bATng2-FeTg4XZJFAY4p3v_wRbCI2gGqBjmbH4KSHFIiYl-5th6hwRC8HRwNc2kbKIGQasAy78MtV7YsoiNPmjeMckVlRenc4HlJfcuhTynQFHOA/s1600-h/1KiloBlogX.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij58BbEiwv8hOI-5F6Q2lJpcEqnZ4bATng2-FeTg4XZJFAY4p3v_wRbCI2gGqBjmbH4KSHFIiYl-5th6hwRC8HRwNc2kbKIGQasAy78MtV7YsoiNPmjeMckVlRenc4HlJfcuhTynQFHOA/s400/1KiloBlogX.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350214477886493586" /></a><br />Combine the sheer quality of the fabrication with the authenticity of an original archive and you've created exactly the right platform from which to progress your own designs forward. That's how we see it anyway.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifCCRltZ2pQuJkt0e9Rn54zg4zwDED4BzhfuDxGDJe1uH2RsZsXhRbOYeFX249K4xRs7QHevRvLdHx88rJMSAECEl-D8i7ptGvuf4e39D-7ZmIm7c0Lbwpdt4vnGn-EKZW_0EFbf2H6b8/s1600-h/IKiloWom.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 292px; height: 400px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifCCRltZ2pQuJkt0e9Rn54zg4zwDED4BzhfuDxGDJe1uH2RsZsXhRbOYeFX249K4xRs7QHevRvLdHx88rJMSAECEl-D8i7ptGvuf4e39D-7ZmIm7c0Lbwpdt4vnGn-EKZW_0EFbf2H6b8/s400/IKiloWom.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350160315284594754" /></a><br />For Fall the journey that started with these ideas resulted in a range of styles in both the men's and women's collections. Each model is built with as much combined style, attitude and integrity as we could muster and all of it will be here before we know it.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rukzqYfJCf7OzGom_ADZqm2ljiA6vJQfhXvr9sxSopZtjUrRKFYsdJU_L7Fez-vWH_MkaaMvGrVsInAfw-V4U12PT1iQIAXc9nXWjP7iwl_UBXpbCnWcwKY6o9UuymhnjP0ZpPfwxlE/s1600-h/IKiloWom2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4rukzqYfJCf7OzGom_ADZqm2ljiA6vJQfhXvr9sxSopZtjUrRKFYsdJU_L7Fez-vWH_MkaaMvGrVsInAfw-V4U12PT1iQIAXc9nXWjP7iwl_UBXpbCnWcwKY6o9UuymhnjP0ZpPfwxlE/s400/IKiloWom2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350160796751372626" /></a>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-40512674346425448522009-06-17T19:18:00.007+02:002009-07-18T20:17:35.868+02:003-WAY COLLISIONWe promised we'd start leaking out some love stories for Fall 2009 since it'll be delivering in the not-too-distant future<span style="font-style:italic;"> (and because we're stoked about the progress it represents and we can't wait to start banging our pots and pans).</span><br /><br />We go on and on about the <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/">DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY</a> and the crucial importance of an archive. You can't build something strong on a weak foundation and, for us, the archive and the combined tradition and craftsmanship it teaches us represents that foundation.<br /><br />But we're also not about managing the reproduction of one-to-one replicas of old garments. We readily confess our deep admiration for many of the brands who are busy with that idea in the emerging "Otaku" scene because some of them demonstrate great taste and good quality, but the direct approach isn't exactly our bag.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_j_3u19gs5WvNczzZTcRKoAUO5eL4y-NkXturso72NBK5LRIxymnBa8sEryIqS8OHFGvTulEjyUXzRGwKel2RJcDFMunbmR6U5sASgrSpmUk8eDu6Xa0PTcL8Sq_OammFic5rzo2H-w/s1600-h/AW10Custom.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhv_j_3u19gs5WvNczzZTcRKoAUO5eL4y-NkXturso72NBK5LRIxymnBa8sEryIqS8OHFGvTulEjyUXzRGwKel2RJcDFMunbmR6U5sASgrSpmUk8eDu6Xa0PTcL8Sq_OammFic5rzo2H-w/s400/AW10Custom.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348350951356875970" /></a><br />We'd prefer to try and pick up where our predecessors and contemporaries may have left off and try to <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UGtlUMMkOU">push things forward</a>.<br /><br />Arriving in the Fall collection is the new CUSTOM jean and it's a good example of this ambition. Taking inspiration from <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTczTXyTg1aA6EkrHmIoHYFAIIv3853FzdrQGu-zO61ZFk72IiHfI_ksC7DRj7H17G5_h27BNYMdky1aAGoDMd5DfDzoKyq-wxDW3MietX-M42AVkl5UDsH6CwNY9iB_GF9BtOYpb2NjRQ/s1600-h/DGL153.jpg">German field pants</a> of the 1930's blended with detailing from <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1cm2iqv4xvyZfmi-l7JZYHpHgclBgezHBfX8mTL_C4TY7gqMYkNWm0GWupKzz5Qm0xqdgL86gXsWdUm-lJovpm0oNVuu16pWSA53EvyZr74RtFonosz3YPN3LhocNiH_8eT4CK7Hn3UsO/s1600-h/DGL161.jpg">American hunting pants</a> from the 50's and new ideas from contemporary wintersport designs, the CUSTOM strives to create progression by folding diverse influences together into a rugged modern jean model for this millennium.NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-18412260272817236602009-06-17T18:46:00.017+02:002009-07-19T22:18:32.176+02:00GARMENTS FROM TENT FABRICBelow we posted a piece about our upcoming exhibition of the <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/06/something-borod.html">SPY BORO</a> series at Bread & Butter Berlin.<br /><br />The girls weren't the only ones cutting into <span style="font-style:italic;">found fabric</span>s and repurposing them into new designs. After all, that's supposed to be the mantra around here. <span style="font-weight:bold;"> Worship Tradition, Destroy Convention.</span><br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/VL4G-UrfupE&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/VL4G-UrfupE&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="405" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />One of the legends of the birth of modern jeanscraft is the story about American workwear tailors crafting pants out of the tough fabric intended for tents during the Gold Rush and the expansion West. There are <a href="http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-19th-Century/Blue-Jeans.html">other stories</a> but the central notion of making clothing from fabric intended for temporary housing is what inspired this other exercise in re-purposing to be dislayed in <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/07/then-we-take-berlin.html">Berlin</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBBQAQR29vJa4VoY474nk7eK5nZUC65kMJ319m8cXF9BnvMuldSR0HW5iUrTICrRIEEF4DfHRJfISvmwW16ssxjTTEPmt3pHUWFqeG-n4Isu4t0qQZ5UW8WFWslX1G4F9QDCzzy3Hzok/s1600-h/BivouacBlack.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBBQAQR29vJa4VoY474nk7eK5nZUC65kMJ319m8cXF9BnvMuldSR0HW5iUrTICrRIEEF4DfHRJfISvmwW16ssxjTTEPmt3pHUWFqeG-n4Isu4t0qQZ5UW8WFWslX1G4F9QDCzzy3Hzok/s400/BivouacBlack.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350632560230016034" /></a><br />Also developed as a limited edition for Spring 2010 the MEDIC INTEL employs reclaimed 3-Layer Gore-Tex Dutch Marine "bivouac" sleeping-shells which were taken apart in order to create a variation on the new <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/06/call-medic.html">1KILO MELTON MEDIC</a> which is soon landing in shops for Fall. <br /><br />Like the Gold Rush canvas tents before them, the Dutch Marine Bivouacs contain all the rugged fabric-features required to produce a tough utlity garment and the <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXj1Z_5GMXCV5PH3GTxzwF5kSNmG8IlXYCd_Ie2jAArm7QK2nSxCeZL_Brq7Wa8_pjSFrnAEBJ8m3RTcOZ49v76L9UPMCXZD9N_x69OtSG1RVuNFu9TC82XD7qeouhq1eb8Oeb5nx7V2o/s1600-h/DGL43.jpg">MEDIC </a>model provided the right tailored starting-point.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLqfXBESs0hVhJwcsLglNVAwFxmjpoZnCIqplndIal1hHS5n2acykx-vnt51Zo8YQmXORkK1Yuqf6CHmXkJs06hcvqwCTzqWQl3yEC9L1GGGYE8MWdO-SL9cUdzYHpoJ_51KRRk82xFQ4/s1600-h/IntelBlog3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLqfXBESs0hVhJwcsLglNVAwFxmjpoZnCIqplndIal1hHS5n2acykx-vnt51Zo8YQmXORkK1Yuqf6CHmXkJs06hcvqwCTzqWQl3yEC9L1GGGYE8MWdO-SL9cUdzYHpoJ_51KRRk82xFQ4/s400/IntelBlog3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350196847774154274" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnFFFZDX4WaGh_A1QVMaqaJlPnHJUavF21EO0-TJQ-JJd2dtV4KwKERs3m5UrIMyAovovBub5ya0RoYPnLF8-ZadGMde3ZvJ5l9SFbiXl4gBSmj7FClvrHX3iN5fcU8c_vFo2IeSOdP8w/s1600-h/IntelBlog1.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnFFFZDX4WaGh_A1QVMaqaJlPnHJUavF21EO0-TJQ-JJd2dtV4KwKERs3m5UrIMyAovovBub5ya0RoYPnLF8-ZadGMde3ZvJ5l9SFbiXl4gBSmj7FClvrHX3iN5fcU8c_vFo2IeSOdP8w/s400/IntelBlog1.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350196146107714706" /></a><br />The construction introduces new ideas like a buttonhole-free buttoning closure and the employment of a biker's bi-swing action back as well as traditional techniques like felled seams... <br /><br />Gore insists on seam-taping but we won ourselves a little creative latitude by using repurposed material <span style="font-style:italic;">(in other words we did it without asking)</span>. In fact, the traces of the original taped-seam assembly are visible within our reconstruction, the ghost of the fabric's first life showing through.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihB7CzL8UeHu8szG71j-6SFPuzsNI-Q7e2z4u7YiKE8XlIcmqFaozjNXke05CyN36tzlxaHCSCGj0JIlgODDNRy_7nLcNPjRik6PEM8XmxJkY2pyYWXOidhW0aYQio5-fDBXh_8ZZvebs/s1600-h/IntelBlog2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihB7CzL8UeHu8szG71j-6SFPuzsNI-Q7e2z4u7YiKE8XlIcmqFaozjNXke05CyN36tzlxaHCSCGj0JIlgODDNRy_7nLcNPjRik6PEM8XmxJkY2pyYWXOidhW0aYQio5-fDBXh_8ZZvebs/s400/IntelBlog2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350197212868748802" /></a><br /><span style="font-style:italic;">(NOTE: This is a use of Gore-Tex fabric that didn't go through the usual channels and we're still not sure how you "market" a jacket with this feature when it wasn't a sanctioned Gore project but we assume we'll find out soon enough)</span><br /><br />Also like the Boro Spy jackets, these won't be in front of consumers until Spring 2010 (sorry about that), but they will be on show earlier at July's <a href="http://www.breadandbutter.com/summer2009/en/brandbible/brand/denham/area/31/">Bread & Butter event</a>.NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-22139347622670087782009-06-17T18:03:00.012+02:002009-07-19T22:19:48.088+02:00SOMETHING BORO'DDespite the promise of her family name, Barbera can't rest. In fact, none of us really can. Here's why:<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3Gu0hErkZKYKC6xx28EG0B7oKJ0ETtMj2Dw0FBSjsmI04nlnnCcJZSswNPFPZtRGCTUeZ4uGo_WN2K06avMRAr-sSzEUHlmNO58ybdMf1u9A_NckUcfUQE2pavQlSThMvjg4tF9vZZg/s1600-h/BoroCutting"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS3Gu0hErkZKYKC6xx28EG0B7oKJ0ETtMj2Dw0FBSjsmI04nlnnCcJZSswNPFPZtRGCTUeZ4uGo_WN2K06avMRAr-sSzEUHlmNO58ybdMf1u9A_NckUcfUQE2pavQlSThMvjg4tF9vZZg/s400/BoroCutting" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348357799968180626" /></a><br />We just launched Spring 2010 to the trade and are busy preparing for it's showcase at Bread & Butter in Berlin. There's lots going on for next Spring, but then again there's a boat load of new stories and details a little closer at hand in the form of the Fall 2009 collection which will be appearing in shop before we know it. Since we don't mind confusing blog-readers we'll be sharing some news on both. For Fall there are stories pending like the <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/06/call-medic.html">1KILO MELTON</a>. <br /><br /><object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1yJ-Je0ew6s&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1yJ-Je0ew6s&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="405" height="344"></embed></object><br /><br />But the reason Barbera van Rest can't rest right now is that all 10 of the limited edition Boro Spy Jacket samples she worked on for Bread & Butter have arrived in the studio. Obviously only a few DENHAM retailers will be getting examples of these when Spring 2010 hits the stores (in what will seem ages from now), but more folks will get a chance to see them during the upcoming event in Berlin where they'll all be on <a href="http://denhamthejeanmaker.blogspot.com/2009/07/then-we-take-berlin.html">display</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89Z2Hb8X3hLqKlshWGh3gc-3Dbdy8Xk5IlzdBraKVAGe7xzg__HCq0nvGjyhwIoxHjv0GcZRiVHUUmvy-FWn4gzWt1ZuaU61YLHpXkeavEA69id6rbypGnHy7tZJJOzY_EtbnYVoo4og/s1600-h/BoroBlack.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi89Z2Hb8X3hLqKlshWGh3gc-3Dbdy8Xk5IlzdBraKVAGe7xzg__HCq0nvGjyhwIoxHjv0GcZRiVHUUmvy-FWn4gzWt1ZuaU61YLHpXkeavEA69id6rbypGnHy7tZJJOzY_EtbnYVoo4og/s400/BoroBlack.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350632242593039650" /></a><br />Each style is cut by hand from one-of-a-kind genuine Japanese <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJOFQXujCD8">Boro</a> textiles. Boro refers to the culture of itinerant workers in Japan who, like American <a href="http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_hb4298/is_200506/ai_n14943884/">sharecroppers</a> during the heyday of original denim culture, created handstitched work clothing which demonstrated high levels of resourcefulness and artisan facility. Fabrics were sewn together from scraps and dyed in natural indigo (very like Blue Jeans). Patch and repair work is also done by hand and the tones, <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDvz3lL5Thyphenhyphen3hw_H1KHgg2TcPsEyjQ4xlkjRzQXvCVFF1JgO2_Q8BPjQtunrwZwpBWxhIxj5l5g3GBns-l8xa6d68Cj2dzoGfkJIr-SrdKqzxuyTdFISnQU6YucmN7XfYCe3O3XzamtjfP/s1600-h/DGL145.jpg">textures and pattern-play</a> is unique in the world of indigo.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyYKsfmkCRVrqkfZkbfHdC3WjugNEWDhgrIWAn8TcgW2DOTJNzZrADIhoIBK6ho6Jy40lXlMDcEaVy-blz59cQU94h7c_gP9tQKsBoCn1ayfWCCQmVVTtkLz9aZhShmscWUEv0m95JLo/s1600-h/BoroBlog3.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEyYKsfmkCRVrqkfZkbfHdC3WjugNEWDhgrIWAn8TcgW2DOTJNzZrADIhoIBK6ho6Jy40lXlMDcEaVy-blz59cQU94h7c_gP9tQKsBoCn1ayfWCCQmVVTtkLz9aZhShmscWUEv0m95JLo/s400/BoroBlog3.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350201293299026882" /></a><br />Beyond tying to the spirit of authentic sharecropper denim in several ways, this project also ties to the wider culture of Japan itself where much of the world's best denim now comes from. Original narrow-loom machinery was purchased by the Japanese when America moved to mass-production and the Japanese have been evolving the high-craft element of denim production ever since. DENHAM is partnered with inspiring collaborators in Japan and we employ Japanese selvedge denim in key styles and core models throughout the <a href="http://issuu.com/denham/docs/bible1_story1/12">collection</a>.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioHE_nYfCJXL69VGP_T0FgKJKSXya4b046H2zvrQOY-Q9Um0SnqWYploMVjJ_qZAuVD-v9kzYHGhD20GIcXgjkrV_IZvftn195khhg5V8AUivO3XAUqVAaZn0Jh1r87htFcuhMYN-xtGM/s1600-h/BoroBlog2.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioHE_nYfCJXL69VGP_T0FgKJKSXya4b046H2zvrQOY-Q9Um0SnqWYploMVjJ_qZAuVD-v9kzYHGhD20GIcXgjkrV_IZvftn195khhg5V8AUivO3XAUqVAaZn0Jh1r87htFcuhMYN-xtGM/s400/BoroBlog2.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5350201288565125474" /></a>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-45953694066081503062009-06-17T15:09:00.011+02:002009-06-17T18:02:51.819+02:00CALL A MEDICI KILO MELTON AHOY<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGo8wHXWDdfQWFTfKRuIP1eJWhfXbaCskayoJY_o34QDfmGZQJHm5XWNOkGfRyGhzMg5MsVThafLHzucF6f0yYt469nzqqJpzEg1c-r7KubTXGwWcjpxnqfqeHIWY8uO71DACqdqZUk6A/s1600-h/1Kilo.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGo8wHXWDdfQWFTfKRuIP1eJWhfXbaCskayoJY_o34QDfmGZQJHm5XWNOkGfRyGhzMg5MsVThafLHzucF6f0yYt469nzqqJpzEg1c-r7KubTXGwWcjpxnqfqeHIWY8uO71DACqdqZUk6A/s400/1Kilo.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348324838421181362" /></a><br />Spring and Summer have been playing a little hard-to-get recently. Morning chills and surprise thunder-showers, but that's part of Amsterdam's charm. The temperature inside our store next to the studio here has been heating up steadily regardless of the weather outside and a bunch of the Spring styles have sold-out. The phenomenon makes us glad we were able to do so some re-ordering but it also has us thinking about the first Fall deliveries which will begin to drop at the end of next month.<br /><br />Because we have the patience of 2-year olds, we're gonna start talking a little bit about the coming Fall in some new entries here. This is the first of those.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh48DutKi45luSYPtxqCjTmEzhG_5EEZG_M7OdMiyPAha2XDErIuFWEKu2VPbmVCN3O_j8ux72gwpBQ3xjuKbXIcgUsqHLjZFqsJRMwDQtcXI-oVKifaQsmikuwyf-s_-xCPUZ3V3wJ3yg/s1600-h/MeltonMeasure.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh48DutKi45luSYPtxqCjTmEzhG_5EEZG_M7OdMiyPAha2XDErIuFWEKu2VPbmVCN3O_j8ux72gwpBQ3xjuKbXIcgUsqHLjZFqsJRMwDQtcXI-oVKifaQsmikuwyf-s_-xCPUZ3V3wJ3yg/s400/MeltonMeasure.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348304191975087410" /></a><br />If you're lucky enough to find a Melton wool quality that is dense enough to measure a full kilo when a meter of the stuff is thrown on a scale you get to call it <span style="font-style:italic;">1-KILO MELTON</span>.<br /><br />We've developed a fabric meeting that standard and used it to create a focused range of outerwear styles for Fall.<br /><br />For instance, the MEDIC men's sportcoat.<br /><br />The style was inspired by a WW2 POW-Medic's traditional sportcoat from our <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXj1Z_5GMXCV5PH3GTxzwF5kSNmG8IlXYCd_Ie2jAArm7QK2nSxCeZL_Brq7Wa8_pjSFrnAEBJ8m3RTcOZ49v76L9UPMCXZD9N_x69OtSG1RVuNFu9TC82XD7qeouhq1eb8Oeb5nx7V2o/s1600-h/DGL43.jpg">DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY</a>. We worked to update the concept while paying respectful homage to the utility, ruggedness and natural sense of swagger of the original. The Medic along with the other 1-KILO MELTON styles will be unleashed in the shop as Fall begins to land.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVAKrV0ySWXQJcYuo8gj2JVWzDA6f9rACONRY88XTrreaPXqAF07Cx8owGmY2Wk3lP8IHVD1-QR-iup1dUHrDBZHY0YM0hUNP89xYD3_GQVzsJCW2b8CF4vzz5AtmlRFrLm0xhD_Mdx5U/s1600-h/AW10Medic.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVAKrV0ySWXQJcYuo8gj2JVWzDA6f9rACONRY88XTrreaPXqAF07Cx8owGmY2Wk3lP8IHVD1-QR-iup1dUHrDBZHY0YM0hUNP89xYD3_GQVzsJCW2b8CF4vzz5AtmlRFrLm0xhD_Mdx5U/s400/AW10Medic.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5348298257225296706" /></a>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-55837367435568827472009-06-09T16:47:00.020+02:002009-06-22T17:22:28.533+02:00ROYAL SLICE<span style="font-weight:bold;">Princess Maxima opens 'Arnhem Mode Biennale' with a pair of scissors from DENHAM</span><br /><br /><br /><object width="400" height="230"><param name="allowfullscreen" value="true"><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><param name="movie" value="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5024783&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1"><embed src="http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=5024783&server=vimeo.com&show_title=1&show_byline=1&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" width="400" height="230"></embed></object><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/5024783">Opening Arnhem Mode Biënnale 2009</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user1304088">HotKitchenOven</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p><br />In fashion there's maybe no better symbol of the crucial importance of collaboration than a pair of tailor's scissors. Two blades working together to cut clean graceful curves through the most rugged country cloth and the finest silk. The 'Arnhem Mode Biennale' manifests the spirit of this metaphor, representing Culture and Industry working together on the platform of fashion,<br />for which Arnhem has become world renowned thanks to ArtEZ and the international profile of its graduates.<br /><br />Jason Denham's new DENHAM label celebrates a similar interaction.<br />The brand concept could be described as "two blades of tradition and innovation working together". This idea is manifested beautifully in a pair of antique French tailor's <a href="http://denhamgarmentlibrary.blogspot.com/2009/04/category-jackets-coats.html">scissors</a> from the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY. The pair was used by Princess Maxima when she officially cut the ribbon and opened the <a href="http://www.arnhemmodebiennale2009.com/read/en/news/6">Biennale</a> this Friday 5th of June.<br />The event, which creates a stage for designs from more then 80 international designers, was a perfect outing for the classic French blades. Securely returned now to the DGL, we're proud they were of use for our Princess and the Arnhem Mode Biennale.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDVp8Iugksmzthje0ZoX3dBL8UZ7qPbwxEH67N9k0YdYKHKEveriYotHJI28PAPrtAjcITqPsC6kkHQLY1ac4OJncEUdhxOrC6cUPT8UqfWMGALVny5Z8mMR1opbej74wLbCUoiEB1wc/s1600-h/MaximaBlog.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 281px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVDVp8Iugksmzthje0ZoX3dBL8UZ7qPbwxEH67N9k0YdYKHKEveriYotHJI28PAPrtAjcITqPsC6kkHQLY1ac4OJncEUdhxOrC6cUPT8UqfWMGALVny5Z8mMR1opbej74wLbCUoiEB1wc/s400/MaximaBlog.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5345979106515807154" /></a>NEWShttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06962743024242072689noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9123271339754381037.post-68038291716892852452009-05-07T14:36:00.017+02:002009-06-22T17:34:58.949+02:00JUNKIE XL (TOKYO)Whilst we strive to worship tradition occasionally we take a moment to worship our worshippers. So it gives us great pride to post these images from one of our admirers, and one of Hollands finest talents:<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVyhG6mnK8I"> Junkie XL</a>, on his recent tour of Japan. Playing host to a crowd of happy clubbers at a Tokyo fashion event, and wearing his favourite relaxed fit D A R T Denhams.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_NuJ4s7UjSQbT_hRa74DOh-RWP-Jf-Lj70cZE2KXpvL9UCNIhQKJBH1h9aS0-TvicNA5xVpIkgq3gyRJgcS8Q2x15gymke_z6ULzU0BVMykFPCyGKGj-z62p9L2scAlDMZw1WaEkGVc0/s1600-h/P1000560.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_NuJ4s7UjSQbT_hRa74DOh-RWP-Jf-Lj70cZE2KXpvL9UCNIhQKJBH1h9aS0-TvicNA5xVpIkgq3gyRJgcS8Q2x15gymke_z6ULzU0BVMykFPCyGKGj-z62p9L2scAlDMZw1WaEkGVc0/s320/P1000560.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333106336914612034" border="0" /></a><br />Whilst Tom insists the "hands-in-the-air" are for his record mixing tenacity, we are of the opinion his Japan Vintage Light washed denims are getting their own rapturous round of applause.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkuYuMz6JhS5rtvcdMn5OsOYTUyuL4EvgYCQz-vvfuM0nON98PU0OPk5qWz42_UwjOYcvmDw8JiBMLwQR82t1nNBaIBaPoasitqUorroqfnpUxhXSSy1DVxpsFu09obuKFpx5hOXGzuhg/s1600-h/P1000516.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkuYuMz6JhS5rtvcdMn5OsOYTUyuL4EvgYCQz-vvfuM0nON98PU0OPk5qWz42_UwjOYcvmDw8JiBMLwQR82t1nNBaIBaPoasitqUorroqfnpUxhXSSy1DVxpsFu09obuKFpx5hOXGzuhg/s320/P1000516.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333106333861263298" border="0" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT74MvckV24ckReCktXT36CZvhymrH7_blbAIBtcs6rzTeK1M0ti8Uk96sEEVLPhULNGuRdU8J7Io5LWqr4Jd6lfPUhKSAdYxb3tspDADfWah8Y0rmK8to2ZVBi04CxsoBgspi7pdKabc/s1600-h/P1000515.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiT74MvckV24ckReCktXT36CZvhymrH7_blbAIBtcs6rzTeK1M0ti8Uk96sEEVLPhULNGuRdU8J7Io5LWqr4Jd6lfPUhKSAdYxb3tspDADfWah8Y0rmK8to2ZVBi04CxsoBgspi7pdKabc/s320/P1000515.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5333106334716278194" border="0" /></a><br />But there are more strings to Tom's bow than spinning the wheels to a thronging mass. Always evolving his techniques from DJing to producing, creating soundtracks, tweaking the geeks on computer games, and even taking the time to teach young kids the joys of making music. Anybody who uses their knowledge to better someone elses is a hero in our book.<br /><br />We salute Junkie XL.Ali Kirbyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11707449654905606094noreply@blogger.com